I will start the way I always do, with an explanation of what it's all about, for those who have not read or heard about The Great Outdoors Challenge before.
The Great Outdoors Challenge is an annual event, sponsored by Ultralight Outdoor Gear. Each September, over four hundred folk apply to take part and a draw for places is made around the end of October. Three hundred and fifty or so folk gain a place and an unlucky few will be placed on the Stand By List to fill the boots of those that have/choose to withdraw before the end of November. Each Challenger or group (of up to four) submits a route of their own design and planning, starting at one of the fourteen start points on the west coast, making their way unsupported across Scotland to finish anywhere on the east coast between Fraserburgh and Arbroath, then catch the train, bus or walk to Montrose to sign back in. The start points are, from north to south, Torridon, Strathcarron, Plockton, Dornie, Shiel Bridge, Glenelg, Mallaig, Morar, Lochailort, Acharacle, Oban, Ardrishaig, Kilchoan and Portavadie.
Four phone calls must be planned and made to Challenge Control to check up on progress, phone calls must also be made if major route changes occur, or if someone is unlucky enough to have to retire from the event (horrid, horrid phone call to make...) There are few rules, no running (why would you?!), no dogs, no unofficial crossings and no accompanying walkers to do an entire crossing (friends and family can join you for a few days)
This was to be my 10th TGO Challenge. Well, my 10th complete crossing. I have now set off fourteen times before and had to retire five times, so I'm really hoping this will be my 10th successful crossing. I said that last year...
Day 0
Wednesday 6th May 2026
I finalised my packing, pushed the key through the letterbox after locking the front door, and set off for the station. It felt very strange to be leaving an empty house and travelling alone and it didn't help my anxiety levels at all.
I strolled to the station and arrived in good time for my train.
Once aboard the train, I tried to relax and enjoy the journey into Inverness. It is only a short journey of around 30 minutes, and once disembarked from the train, I had a short walk to the bus station where I had a short wait for my bus to Shiel Bridge. All of a sudden, there were many Challengers, although I only spoke to a few. I sat on the bus next to first time Challenger, David Cressey I believe. We chatted about things Challenge related and life in general, the time passed quickly and soon I was disembarking the bus with a clutch of other Challengers, but David stayed on the bus for his start point of Dornie.
The other Challengers, Sue, Ngumo, David Wishart? And a few others dispersed to the campsite, Lindsay headed off to the hotel, I crossed the road to wait in the shelter of the bus stop for my friend Kevin and his walking partner Richard. I mused over my plans for the next few days whilst eating snacks, starting the way I meant to go on. The bus from Glasgow soon arrived and I was greeting friends Kevin and Gordon Green and making new ones, Richard and Kenneth. We set off together over the bridge where Gordon left us to camp at the campsite and we continued to Ratagan Hostel. Who thought that was a good idea?
Sue, Ngumo and various others on their way to the campsite
The walk to the hostel seemed to take forever and on the way I developed a niggle in my right thigh/hip and this was just another thing to add to my long list of things to be anxious about. We arrived at the hostel and immediately bumped in to Andy from Ultralight Outdoors Gear, one of the main sponsors of event, so had a quick chat with him before going to sit in the lounge area and wait to book in. The young woman on reception was lovely, Mhairi, and I was soon choosing between the two top bunks left in the female bunk room. At this hostel you can buy a frozen meal to enjoy in the evening, so we cooked our meals and sat together to eat them. Well, they did. I struggled, as usual. Kev offered to do the washing up and who am I to argue?
I had showered before dinner so I would be able to get up and organised in the morning and went to bed early. Not every one in my room did that, but I had loop ear plugs and bone conducting earphones to listen to Sir Ian McKellen read me to sleep.
Day 1
Thursday 7th May 2026
Planned Shiel Bridge to Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh
13km 590m (plus 3.6km 29m to the start)
Actual Shiel Bridge to a bit further along
20km 647m (inc. to the start)
So, Day 1 of the Challenge dawned and I had had a fitful sleep and felt tired before I even started. I went down to join the boys for breakfast, which obviously, I struggled to eat. We each got packed up and set off to sign out at the Kintail Lodge Hotel at 8.20am. We signed out at the hotel at 9.20am, so we were off to a flying start.
At first, we made steady progress along the roads and tracks to Morvich and then into Strath Croe where we had a break and I had a snack and a good drink, but once we started the gradual climb along Gleann Choimmeachain towards Bealach an Sgairne, I started to struggle. My legs felt heavy, as if they didn't belong to me. I was frustrated and worried. Maybe I shouldn't be doing this. Maybe I should go home. Maybe I should continue the route I took last year to Cannich, rather than via Cougie.
The weather so far was good. Dry, warm and sunny. I hoped it wouldn't get any warmer.
Along the way, we caught up with Kenneth Damasco and he joined our loose group.
Slowly, slowly, I forced myself to continue upwards to Bealach an Sgairne. It took a while with many pauses. We had a good break by the Allt Coire an Sgairne and had a chat with a passing couple and their rather over friendly and clearly peckish Labradors. I tried to eat and drink, but soon started to feel chilled and start to shiver, the weather was beginning to change. We set off again and passed a group of walkers taking a break on their way down off the hill. Once over the bealach, we were greeted by good views of the glens and a few spots of rain, so we paused to put on our waterproofs and kept them on until we made camp. I felt much better at this point, I presume it was just my anxiety affecting how felt physically. Well, I felt better until I fell. Of course I fell. At least I got it over with on the first day. The boys were all lovely, Kev took charge, easing off my rucksack and encouraging me to sit for a while before I got up and was helped on with my rucksack. Quite the idiot.
I pushed on about 3km further from where I camped with Laura last year, taking a little off the next days route.
A camp spot was sighted from the path, on the other side of the river. I don't usually make such radical pitch choices, but Richard was determined, so off we went and crossed the river. It was a good enough spot, so by about 6.30pm we dropped our packs and pitched our tents. I collected water, visited the ensuite and got into my tent to get changed in to warm, dry clothes, rehydrate my dinner and enjoy two cups of tea to adequately rehydrate after our exertions of the day. I felt much better by the time I settled down in my sleeping bag.
Sir Ian McKellen continued the story where he had left off.
Day 2
Friday 8th May 2026
Planned Allt Gleann Gniomhaidh to Cougie
24km 450m
Actual as planned, but shorter
22.5km 461m
I had not had a good night as it was very windy, but I was certainly not cold, my new sleep system promised to be good. I started to get up when I heard the boys making movements. I was a bit slow to get going. I found my porridge bar difficult to eat, I managed a good cup of tea whilst I packed. I paid a last minute visit to the ensuite after packing up my tent with cold hands and we set off at about 8.45am. Kev was pleased to see me happier than I had been the previous morning and feeling more confident again.
We reached the path into Glen Affric and were soon at the hostel where the boys each had a toilet break. I sat and watched a couple of ponies being readied for their trek west to Morvich. We set off again and I took the lead, determined to walk a continuous slow, steady pace uphill and test my legs. This morning, they were feeling good.
At Cnoc Fada, Kenneth left us to take the path on the north side of the loch, whilst we headed for Athnamulloch and a lunch break. We investigated the renovated Trees for Life bothy for shelter from the biting wind and found a bench to sit on. We stayed a while. We continued on our way up the track and once we reached the Allt Garbh, we took another rest.
The climb up the Allt Garbh is far worse than I actually remember it, I must have blocked it out, it was quite the struggle. There may have been an unplanned diversion part way up... It was very warm work as we were sheltered from the wind. We eventually popped out on to the track to Cougie and breathed a sigh of relief. Whilst breathing, we spotted a golden eagle, my first of this Challenge.
The track to Cougie took longer than I remembered too, but the nightmare bridge I was expecting has been replaced. I was utterly delighted.
A vast improvement on the previous bridge...
We bumped in to another Challenger, Brian Wade, who seemed to be struggling.
We arrived at Cougie at around 6pm and were greeted by Billy and Melanie. We were shown to our rooms and after a quick sort out, we joined the rest of the Challengers for dinner. Sue, Lindsay, Ngumo and Shaun Sexton all had beds, Brian and a Strathcarron starter, Paul, were camping.
We had a lovely meal, I had chose Super Hulk Green Soup, Beef Lasagne and Sticky Toffee Pudding, and I also treated myself to a can of Stella.
Super Green Hulk Soup
I didn't take photos of the rest because I was apparently very hungry and forgot...
We all sat in the lounge a while after dinner, except Shaun who planned an early start. There were more drinks (not for me) and lots of chat and reminiscing, until it was time for bed. I had a lovely room and was soon settled down with Sir Ian, if a little later than I would usually.
Day 3
Saturday 9th May 2026
Planned Cougie to Cannich
17km 75m
Actual As planned
17km 65m
Not the best night. Kept being disturbed by something beeping and it took me far too long to realise it was my own Garmin inReach Mini letting me know it was going to expire. I then scrabbled around in the dark and cold (who needs to know where there headtorch is?) at 3am to find the Garmin and the means with which to charge it. I did not sleep well after all the fuss, despite being warm and cosy.
Shaun left early.
Breakfast was at 08:00 and I was almost packed. I felt terrible and was glad I had opted for a bacon sandwich rather than a full Scottish breakfast, I barely managed it. I did manage the orange juice and copious amounts of tea.
We set off after everyone else, a tad late at 9.40am. Once moving I stopped shivering and began to feel better. I had no idea what was going on, but assume it was anxiety, it is unhelpful.
We stopped at Plodda Falls for a break, just because there are benches. There were plenty of cars and people, coming and going. It wasn't a long break, it was feeling cool with a chance of rain at this point and soon we walked on and reached Hilton Lodge. Here, the boys left me to head off towards Fort Augustus. I would not see them again until we all reached Tarfside, more than a week later.
I plodded on alone.
The afternoon walk was unremarkable, it was bright and warm, with plenty of traffic. I found a bench in the shade and took a break at Tomich, but as I didn't have far to go, just kept going after that.
I met a young lady Challenger as I reached Cannich, potentially Jess Worsdale? She was heading out for Drumnadrochit or at least as close as she could get. I reached the campsite at around 3pm, pitched my tent, showered then headed to the shop for a small resupply. Back at the campsite I met various Challengers, including Ali, Carol, Kenneth, who was now injured, but planning to continue, Richard Maxey, Gavin I think, Andy and a couple of others. The cafe opened late and I joined a table with Ali and Richard and ordered fish and chips which I then struggled to eat. Maybe the Magnum I had eaten on the way back from the shop had interfered with my appetite.
I was soon tucked up in my sleeping bag with Sir Ian.
Day 4
Sunday 10th May 2026
Planned Cannich to Drumnadrochit
23km 480m
Actual As planned (with minor deviation)
22km 368m
A good night, apart from the 03:00 faff to find my lost hanky.
I found it.
Right where I'd put it.
I was very cosy in the night, I even had to take off my bed socks. This never normally happens.
I didn't intend to have a breakfast at the cafe, but suddenly, a pot of tea was appealing, so I had a bacon butty too, realised I'd made myself late, so packed like a mad thing and set off just before 9am. To be honest, there was actually no hurry as I was not catching the evening boat, but I wanted to do my resupply shop at a reasonable time.
I just trudged my way to Drumnadrochit, on a new bit, an old bit and a road bit. There were other Challengers around, including Richard, but I don't know any other names. I had Trail Magic tea! A lovely couple had a refreshments table set up at the picnic bench at Lochletter for a cycle event, but welcomed Challengers to take a seat and have a drink and snacks. I stayed a while and chatted, they were so friendly, and had a lovely cup of tea. I made a decision at that point to exit the Affric Kintail Way and take the road to Drumnadrochit. It cuts out a long climb through the forestry and the road has a decent verge to hop on to when required and eventually a footpath. I arrived at my hostel at about 3pm, so could easily have made the evening boat, but was happy enough (at the time) to stop in Drum. I dropped my pack and went to shop, meeting Carol on her way to bag a seat on the evening boat. On my return to the hostel, I met another Challenger in the kitchen as I prepared my ping curry and a cup of tea, Neil, possibly? Nice fella.
I sat in bed and enjoyed my curry, with no visual entertainment as there was no remote control for the television and the cable was not long enough to reach a socket anyway. My intention was to have a hot shower before bed, but I discovered there was no hot water (or maybe it took longer than the five minutes I gave it to run through). Anyhow, in my feed back to the hostel, I told them the television was neither use nor ornament and should be removed. I've yet to stay at one of their establishments that has a working television.
Sir Ian worked his magic.
Day 5
Monday 11th May 2026
Planned Drumnadrochit to Carn a' Chuil
30km 530m
Actual Drumnadrochit to Carn a' Chuil
24km 800m (not exact, my Garmin watch was glitching)
I had to set off quite early to catch the new boat across Loch Ness, Beasty Boats and I was ready to leave by about 7.40am. I could see a probable Challenger ahead and was then caught up by David, it was reassuring to have company as I spotted what I'd thought was the pedestrian access to the new harbour. The boat was a great success, on a first come first served basis, there was a big boat and a rib. I got on to the big boat and I was glad. Although we travelled further, along to the pier at Foyers, the journey seemed quite quick. On arrival at the pier, the coffee kiosk was open, so I had a cup of tea and a bag of crisps. I spotted Sue, Ngumo, Lindsay and Richard being dropped off by Janet from Ault-na-Goire, they had taken the evening boat the night before and were all heading to the windfarm. I was heading for Glen Mazeran and before setting off, a couple of first timers had been discussing the route through Gleann Liath. I mentioned that I had spotted a route through the forestry to Errogie that I felt was more direct and they also opted to follow it. Whoops!
As I hauled myself and my now heavy pack up to see the Falls of Foyers, I remember telling Laura in 2014 that I would not be going that way again. And yet, here I was...
At the top I met Sue, Ngumo, Lindsay and Richard again, but I would not see them again for a couple of days. In fact, I saw no other Challengers till then.
I found the path I was looking for to the left of the cafe with surprising ease and followed it up, past a small reservoir and to the minor road through Gleann Liath. I crossed it at the cross roads and continued to the next junction, where I left the road and joined the forestry road. I took a break in a little layby, then continued until I reached the minor road about a kilometre west of Errogie, then I continued on the standard route along the roads to reach Aberarder House and the turn off to head once more into the hills, climbing the track alongside the Allt Mor. I took a break at the bottom of the track and then again briefly at the top near the locked bothy, but I was very aware time was getting on and didn't want to be horribly late. As I climbed, I spotted two golden eagles having a squabble in the sky above the moors. They resolved their spat and one then flew its evening patrol of its territory and I got some lovely views of it.
I climbed the peaty track up to the watershed and bog and peat hag hopped over the top, taking my time so as to not come to any kind of grief. I generally quite enjoy a bit of peat hag hopping. I found the caochan I wanted and followed it down to reach the track. I did think I would take the first suitable spot I found, but someone with an Enan had beaten me to it. I found another spot by a ford and decided it was good enough. The tent was up, I had collected water, visited the ensuite and was just getting into my tent as the rain started. There was also some snow before I settled down and some gusty wind. I felt a bit sick by this time, probably a little dehydrated and I hadn't eaten much, so despite being late to camp, at about 8.30pm,I made myself eat a hot meal and had plenty of tea. Whilst messaging David, he did point out I was camped exactly where I had planned, so the Enan had not nicked my spot after all.
I snuggled up with Sir Ian.
Day 6
Tuesday 12th May 2026
Planned Carn a' Chuil to River Dulnain
22km 530m
Actual as planned
22km 530m (Garmin watch died just before the summit)
The dry patch where my tent was
I had an awful night. It was very windy, it rained and it snowed. But it was the pet mole that kept me awake. I was convinced there was a mole, trying to dig its way into my tent. In reality, a few days later, I decided it was the gusty wind blowing the tent inner against the zip pull of my sleeping bag, the sound distorted through my pillow. I was, yet again, cosy and comfy through the night.
Despite such a late night, I was still up and ready to leave by 9.10am, just as it started to rain again. Luckily, the wind had dried the tent sufficiently between the showers that I packed a damp tent, not tent soup.
Today would be a steady plod, all day. Just do my own thing. So I did. I took my first break at the big trees by the bridge at Dalmigavie Lodge. Just west of Easter Strathnoon I took the track heading towards Carn Ruighe Shamhraich, hoping that the wooden bothy part way along would be open. Of course, it was not, but I sat at the gable end out of the wind and in the sunshine it was quite pleasant. After a good break, I continued. In the wind and the hail. And more wind and more hail. My Garmin watch started to shout at me, "Charge me!" Not now, I thought, you'll have to wait...
I climbed the track slowly to Carn Dubh 'Ic an Deoir, meeting a couple of walkers on their way down who wanted to chat, in the wind and the hail... One was a friend of an acquaintance, the mother of one of our best Gold DofE participants. It's a funny world. Their parting shot of "You're nearly at the top!" was not funny. As I neared the summit the track was very exposed and the head wind was less than enjoyable. On reaching the gate in the electric fence, I found it was impossible to open, and equally impossible to climb in the wind wearing my pack. I unclipped it and heaved it over the gate, then followed it. Touched the trig, lifted the pack and off I went, to get off this wind blasted hill.
At first, all went well. But I was so determined not to get suckered in by the fence, I went too wide. I eventually found a useful deer trod and after through heather and spiky juniper for a good while, hit the track, further down than I had intended, but hit it none the less. I made good time from there to Red Bothy and was pleased, arriving around 6pm. I found three tents pitched by the river where I was intending to pitch and although unsure, I decided they were probably Challengers, and as I wanted some shelter from the wind I would join them, carefully choosing a spot that wasn't too close to anyone and started to get my tent up. "Hello Louise!" Ah, Lindsay! She'd decided to sleep in the bothy with unknown occupants rather than in a wet tent, she was not enjoying herself at all and was planning to withdraw. As she chatted, Sue appeared. Ngumo was in the furthest tent and John Berry, the other Challenger from home, was in the other tent and was keen to meet me, so I went to say hello on my way to collect water. I got a big hug and chat, then they all went back to their lodgings and I collected water and visited the ensuite before diving into my tent, getting warm dry clothes on and preparing and eating my dinner.
Sue, John, my saggy little Laser
I had my first and only snipe of this Challenge as I was settling down, two of them.
I love Sir Ian.
Day 7
Wednesday 13th May 2026
Planned River Dulnain to Aviemore
14km 380m
Actual As planned
15km 390m
I only had a short day today, so I was not surprised to be the last to leave. I had another cosy night, my sleep system was clearly working well, which was very pleasing. I had a cup of tea and something to eat before striking camp and setting off. I was dreading the Burma Road, but in reality it is a relatively short easy climb compared to the previous two. The weather wasn't nice though. Windy and wet. Seems to be a bit of theme. I was passed by two vehicles on my way up and a little later, on my way down, two cyclists. The young fella was enjoying himself, his young lady friend was not.
I walked on with no breaks because there was no shelter and the wind was cold. In the woods near Lynwilg I heard tree pipit and redstart, two new birds for me.
At Lynwilg I paused briefly sitting on a wall, but was just putting off crossing the A9, so forced myself on in the hope of finding a better place to rest once I was on the Speyside Way. I crossed the A9 with ease and was soon heading towards Aviemore on the Way. I continued a short way before finding a sheltered patch of grass where I was happy to drop my pack and take a break. No sooner had I started snacking than Graeme Dunsire appeared, also heading to Aviemore. We had a good chinwag and he told me not to be too long as it was due to rain, so not long after he headed off, I followed.
Looking north along the Speyside Way, Meall a' Bhuachaille
I booked into my hotel, showered, them headed to Tesco for my resupply. I got a poke of chips on the way back, then a ploughmans sandwich at M&S Simply Food. I snaffled the chips back in my room, then went off to start my laundry. The wash cycle took just over 35 minutes, I went back to my room to hung out my tent and sleeping bag and then returned to use the tumble dryer. This was a slightly longer cycle, but everything was done in good time to settle down, make phone calls and eat the rest of my goodies before bed.
Day 8
Thursday 14th May 2026
Planned Aviemore to Glasath
22km 680m
Actual Aviemore to Faindouran Lodge
33km 830m
I set off nice and early, around 8.10am after a night that was not too bad, although could have been better. It was raining. This was not going to improve.
After the Coylumbridge hotel, not too far ahead, I could see what I presumed to be a Challenger, but made no effort to increase my pace to catch them, I've learnt to walk at my own pace. I chatted to a couple of cyclists about the Challenge, they were a tad puzzled, but wished me well before cycling off. I eventually arrived in Glenmore and plumped to visit the Pine Martin bar for tea and a breakfast roll. As I entered, the young lady behind the bar welcomed me in, ordered my pot of tea and told me to make myself comfortable, then we would decide what I would eat. I found John sitting at a table and joined him. I ordered a sausage breakfast roll and we shared more tea. We put off going out into the rain and wind for as long as we could, but eventually we had to go. As we left, we met Andy Gerrard, and then Sue and Ngumo appeared, minus Lindsay, who had withdrawn at Inverdruie. I told John to walk ahead of me, there was no way I would keep up and I was happy enough on my own. There were a surprising amount of people, mainly walking the opposite direction to me and with smaller or no packs. I got to An Lochan Uaine and decided to add a layer underneath my Paramo and Borealis jackets and wear my primino mitts inside my waterproof mitts. This turned out to have been a really good idea.
I continued and headed off towards Bynack Stables. There was a group of four youngsters and a bit later another chap I think may have been Corbett bagging, all heading towards Glenmore. I bumped into John again at Bynack Stables, emptying a stone from his boot. I ate a Babybel, John told me a dreadful cheesy joke, then he was off again, following a little behind a couple of Easters who had just started their adventure from Aviemore that morning.
There was a brief dry spell, but as the weather closed in again I did wonder if I should turn back down the shoulder of Bynack More and camp at Bynack Stables, as per my FWA. At this point, however, Sue and Ngumo caught me up and Sue was having none of it, "No! You can't turn back! Walk with us."
So I did.
In some respects, I'm glad I did.
Looking ahead
At the time, I questioned my own (and their) sanity.
We got into a really good rhythm and pace and were soon making our way down to the Coire Odhar. Ahead but off to the right of the track, we could see a huddle of people that turned out to be John and the two Easters, Steve and Jane. They had had difficulty crossing a burn, Uisage Dubh Pott a' Choin, that is normally just stepped over, barely noticed. It was now a raging torrent. John had helped them cross in a safe place and indicated to us to join them, which we did.
This was the start of An Epic Day.
We stayed together as a group, Sue, John and I regularly having a conflab about routes and consulting the map. We quickly decided my route and then Sue's were out. John had an idea that needed us to continue further along the path but we soon ditched that idea too. We continued until we reached the burn before the Refuge, Allt Dearg and it was decided that there was no real advantage in crossing it as we did not want to stop at the Refuge or cross the Fords of Avon, so we continued contouring around until we joined the path to Faindouran Lodge.
This path is tiresome, vague in places and like all the other paths we'd been on, suffering from a serious identity crisis. There was so much water, absolutely nowhere to stop, even Ngumo was finding it tough going. John was engagingly positive and had a seemingly endless supply of Scouting joke, he also plied us on one occasion with half a Nature Valley bar each. He definitely kept everyone's spirits up.
It took so long to get the Lodge, I had a 12 hour day, walking for nearly 8 hours solid after leaving Glenmore.
But we got there!
Ngumo stayed in the warm bothy with Colin Crawford and another Challenger. The rest of us stayed in the other building. It wasn't as cold as I expected. We all made ourselves comfortable, Sue and I bonded over a pee, we all prepared food and hot drinks and eventually settled down for the night.
WHAT A DAY!! Epic.
Sir Ian is very calming.
Day 9
Friday 15th May 2026
Planned Glasath to Linn of Avon
14km 230m
Actual Faindouran to Corndavon Lodge
22km 346m
I had a reasonable night. I was not at all cold, but I was aware of an occasional mist spray on my face during the night, there must have been holes in the wall or roof somewhere. But I was not cold. Eventually at around 6am, Sue and I both needed to get up to visit the ensuite. We discovered it had been snowing through the night. Once back in the bothy, I thought the others would get moving, but they didn't. We got back into our sleeping bags and stayed there until Ngumo burst through the door ready to leave. He was somewhat miffed that we were not, but in our defence, we had not arranged a time to leave. It did not take us too long and we were soon up, dressed, packed, fed and ready to go about 9am. In the end, we left without Ngumo as he had had a second breakfast to keep warm. He caught us up eventually.
So did John. He chatted briefly but not for long, I did not see him again until Tarfside. The Easters had decided to relax and take their time as they were quite ahead of themselves now. I was also ahead of myself, my main route would have seen me camp at Glasath, which would not have been possible in the conditions, then continue on to Linn of Avon the next day. My FWA would have seen me camp early at Bynack Stables, then continue via Faindouran Lodge to Linn of Avon. I was on my FWA, but 15km into the second day of my FWA. I could have stopped as planned at Linn of Avon, but I was there by lunch and it was very windy there, a cold wind at that, so I decided to walk with Sue and Ngumo to their planned overnight at Corndavon Lodge. Besides, I was really enjoying the company and getting to know Sue, we've known each for some time now and had never spent any time together, this was a perfect opportunity.
River Avon
We walked in waterproofs, the wind was cold and it rained or hailed occasionally. We struggled to stop for any breaks, there was no shelter and it was unpleasant. Not long after crossing the bridge NJ 155 068, we happened across an elderly gentleman sitting on the bank with a couple of Asda bags and perhaps a small backpack. A young woman perched on a rock a short distance away, she had a significant rucksack and face like thunder. The gentleman was quite cheerfully spreading peanut butter from a glass jar on a slice of white bread from a loaf in one of his bags. He offered it to the young woman who took it, but remained silent.
John later told us the story of these two, father and daughter, who had set off on the spur of the moment (the gentleman's desire) to walk from Tomintoul to Blair Atholl. They had got as far as the hut NJ 126 060, spent the night I believe, then turned back, which was the point at which we met had them. John also thought the young woman looked furious...
Along Loch Builg, a group of three cyclists passed us and stopped for a chat. One of them offered us some jelly sweets from a big bag, he was sick of them and giving them away to anyone they met. We lightened his load slightly. Shortly after passing the small lochans at the southern end of the Loch, we unceremoniously dumped our packs in the heather and took a break. It was cold but at least sunny and dry for a while. We didn't stop long.
There were quite a few river crossings, all manageable, and all would have been easier if I had stopped to take my boots off, but it was cold and I could not be bothered, so I didn't. I thought I would get into camp with wet feet and was very surprised not to. A bit damp maybe, but not wet. The cold was getting to me a bit, in my head, but after what seemed like quite a long walk, we finally made it to Corndavon Lodge around 4pm, nice and early, and found ourselves a nice spot to camp for the night. It was quite a relaxed affair, we pitched our tents (I faffed unnecessarily), Ngumo very kindly collected water for us all, I visited the ensuite and got into my tent to drink tea and make dinner while getting into warm, dry clothes. I had not pitched particularly well and there was a bit of a slope to deal with, but I was comfortable enough and was soon snuggled down with Sir Ian.
Day 10
Saturday 16th May 2026
Planned Linn of Avon to Coulachan Burn
15km 210m
Actual Corndavon Lodge to Ballater
23km 505m
Again, I was in the middle of two days. There really was no point in continuing my route to stop at Coulachan Burn. I could have walked along Glen Gairn to Ballater, but a little local knowledge made me uncomfortable at the idea of walking that route alone, so I decided to walk with my new best friends, Sue and Ngumo, despite the fact this included a hill that was completely unnecessary for me to climb, I've done it before with TTS. Still, it seemed the most appealing, or least unappealing option.
As we were preparing to leave, I spotted my fourth large bird of the crossing, another golden eagle. Ngumo was delighted! There had also been a ring ouzel singing as I had visited the ensuite first thing. Quite the birdy Challenge this year.
We set off by 8.30am. Sue had a plan, but probably because we were chatting, we missed the first turn and ended up walking what would have been part of my route. I didn't even notice if I would have had a nice pitch. We had to walk nearly a kilometre NE along the road when we hit it, to pick up the track over Geallaig Hill. That was a bit of a struggle for me. Ngumo taught me "Poh-le, poh-le." It means slowly, slowly. I liked this very much. We still made good time and were able to stop at the substantial cairn at the top around midday for a good long lunch break, a luxury! Phone calls were made, cheese and olive foccacia were eaten, all was well with the world.
After lunch, suitably refreshed, we continued on the path along the ridge until we started to drop down to Creag na Creiche, then to Carn Dearg. We were aiming to leave the hill through the heather and gain the minor road via the farm at Culsh, and at first, all went well. We were heading across the heather and found a trod to follow. It took us to a large cairn, possibly a memorial, then to a second. At this point, the trod disappeared. We knew where we wanted to be, so we had to make away through heather that was at times knee deep, to a fence. We crossed and followed the fence through woodland for a while until the wind blown trees became problematic, then we just headed downhill until we hit the track. It wasn't pretty, but we got there and then onto the road to Ballater.
Following Sue through the heather
We were a little tired and dusty by now, the wind was less cold and the sun quite warm. As we took the path into Ballater, we found treasure, a box of baked goodies left by Dominique from Ballater Hostel. We each gratefully took a treat and were hugely cheered by them. We were soon wandering our way through pleasant woodland and along small roads into the town centre where Ngumo went to buy new dancing shoes in the outdoor shop and I met Carl. We all eventually sat together to enjoy pots of tea in The Bothy before heading to the campsite. As Lindsay no longer needed her pitch, Sue said I could take it as I was now in need of accomodation, I was not due in to the hostel until the following day and they didn't have a bed available on Saturday. I was very grateful, and we spent a nice evening relaxing after visiting Co-op to resupply and buy goodies. After a fabulously hot shower, I gorged on a tin of Heinz Cream of Chicken soup, which I may have singed slightly, a couple of rolls and an apple pastry.
Sir Ian was soon lulling me to sleep.
Day 11
Sunday 17th May 2026
Planned Coulachan Burn to Ballater
19km 100m
Actual DAY OFF
0km 0m
I had an unplanned day off. I waved Sue and Ngumo off on their way, they had decided to take the Deeside Way as Sue needed to reach the coast by Tuesday.
I did my laundry before leaving the campsite, I had a chat with Andy Gerrard and Kenneth in between my chores. After packing away, I took my things to Ballater Hostel where I was able to leave them in a secure, safe place, then I went off to find friends.
First, I met Craig. We went to find coffee and met Colin. We sat together and chatted for quite some time before we eventually thought we should let someone else have the table.
I met Carl and we went for coffee. This time, The Bothy was full, so we went to the pub. I had tea, Carl had beer. I had more tea, Carl had Coke Zero.
On returning from the ladies, I heard my name called across the pub and there was Sue and John Plume! I had first met them on the way out of Plockton in 2013, my first DNF (asthma attack, Bearnock Hostel) and John had subsequently vetted one of my routes. We had a wonderful time chatting and reminiscing before it was time for me to try my luck at getting into the hostel early before meeting Carl and David Albon for dinner.
Once in the hostel, I was soon in my private room, sorting through my kit, airing my laundry that wasn't quite bone dry and sorting through my food for the next few days. I had a good rest for an hour or so before getting ready for dinner and popping over to the Alex to join David and Carl.
We had a very pleasant evening and a good meal, David told us of his adventures and misfortunes, having taken a fall and bumped his head. He had been trying not to walk alone since as Control were slightly worried about the possibility of a head injury, he seemed to be doing okay although maybe his confidence had been knocked.
It was soon time to head back to the hostel for bed. I briefly spoke to the other table of Challengers on the way past, particularly Humphrey and Esther, but Emma (withdrawn) Andrew, Lindsey, Lynsey and Craig were also there. Once back in my room I rang TTS again and then packed up some gear before going to bed and being lulled to sleep by Sir Ian.
Day 12
Monday 18th May 2026
Planned Ballater to The Fungle Road
22km 450m
Actual As planned
22km 450m (not exact, my Garmin was glitching again)
There was not much sleep, unfortunately. As often happens when I am in accomodation, I feel uncomfortable and unsettled. Not least because I was now worried about the day ahead and kicking myself for not inviting David to join me, which would have killed two birds with one stone.
I showered, had breakfast and a cup of coffee. I returned to my room and I was finishing my packing, David rang and we arranged to meet and walk together. I immediately felt much better.
As we joined the Deeside Way, we bumped into Dominque, on a mission to refill her cookie boxes.
Not far from town, we found Craig, I had also messaged him earlier and missed his reply that he would wait for me, luckily we weren't too far behind him. We walked together, putting the world to rights, all the way to Dinnet. At Cambus o' May bridge we took a break at the picnic bench and Heidi Waters and her two companions arrived, lovely to see Heidi again.
At Dinnet, Craig had decided to continue along the Deeside Way to finish at Footdee instead of coming over the Fungle Road, so we parted ways at the crossroads. David and I did a short road walk over the Dinnet Bridge to find the footpath that would take us to the visitor centre in Glen Tanar. It's a lovely little woodland stroll and we stopped on a stone bench for a proper break and for David to air his tent. There was a stagnant pool of water and I was slightly concerned we might be eaten by mosquitos, but had no problems in the end. It was a bright, warm day, every slight breeze was welcome.
The visitor centre was closed and the outside tap I have used before was not working, but there are toilets, so we opted to collect water from there. I would filter my water, David was happy to boil his.
After leaving the visitor centre, we passed a lovely little church before taking a track that heads mainly uphill for what seems like forever. We made steady progress, occasionally pausing to breathe, but upwards, ever upwards. We saw no evidence or signage for the Capercaillie that is a known resident of the area, there were two cyclists heading downhill complaining of needing brakes, oh how I laughed, and two horses appeared behind us as we neared the top of our climb, "You chose the steepest route!" Did I? I took the most direct and least likely to be interrupted by the caper.
Anyway, there was now a bit of contouring, following the track round Baudy Meg. At the slight flat area to the west of spot height 466, we headed off across the heather. I think David was a little perplexed by my navigation. I've been this way before and essentially knew which landmarks I was looking for. Carnferg gives quite a good reference point in good visibility, I also used the few trees we could see. I wanted to contour round the hill, avoiding too much climb or descent. I think I did a spot on job, we made good steady progress and I recognised many of the features, including a particular metal post and a strange stone built bank which I'd guess is used for shooting game. The height of the heather varied, there were small areas of bog and an occasional deer trod heading in a useful direction, it didn't take us too long to have the track in our sights and we headed straight to it. We had seen Andrew, Lindsay and Lynsey on the track ahead of us, they had come via Aboyne, but they didn't see us. When we reached the locked bothy, they had already collected water from the burn (the supply is not always reliable, which was why I had chosen to collect from the centre) and determined where they preferred to pitch. They kindly offered us the most sheltered pitches which we were grateful for and we popped our tents up at the gable end to the north of the bothy. They came for a chat, but I was soon zipped up in my tent, ready for bed, eating my dinner and rehydrating as it had been a warm day and we had worked hard to get there.
Sir Ian did not have to work quite so hard to get me to sleep.
Snuggling behind the locked bothy
Day 13
Tuesday 19th May 2026
Planned The Fungle Road to Tarfside
15km 400m
Actual As Planned
15km 413m
I had heard the others getting up and about, but they disappeared off without a word of goodbye.
I'd had another bad night, it had started to rain on and off but the wind didn't really bother us. By the time we got up, it was raining persistently, but the building still offered some shelter. We were awake by 6am, I got dressed and packed as I ate a quick breakfast and drank water as I couldn't be bothered to make tea. I had a moment of panic as I found a spider in my tent, it had clearly been trapped under my mat all night but not been squashed. I squealed and flicked. I thought it went out of the open door...
We had dropped our tents and were ready for the off 7.30am.
We walked at a steady pace, made our way to the paths and sign posts to the side of Birse Castle, then continued along The Fungle Road to the east of Keirn and the west of Mudlee Bracks. I don't know how anyone could get that wrong and head up to join the Firmounth Road to Gannoch and Tampie. Not in those conditions anyway.
It was awful. The main difference between this day and the Epic Day was probably wind direction. The persistent rain was blown at us at such an angle that I soon became aware that I was Very Wet inside my waterproofs. My trousers felt like they were being dragged down to my knees. Luckily, I didn't feel cold as long as we kept moving, so we only had brief pauses. Colin caught us up and walked with us all the way to Tarfside. We mainly walked in companiable silence, not least because the strong winds prevented conversation. They were incredibly kind and patient as I was flagging, but we eventually got to the top and were off downhill at pace. I was singing to myself as we started to head downhill, "I'm on my way, from misery to happiness today, ah ha, ah ha..." I'm pretty sure nobody heard me.
The weather was awful.
I was drenched to the skin.
Arriving at Tarfside was such a huge a relief and as it was about 11.30am, in time to bag a bed, sharing a bunkbed with Lynsey. I didn't realise at first that David had not actually been that lucky, but then the floor space in the conference room was offered and he happily set up his bed in there.
After my shower, I chilled in the lounge area, enjoying the company of various Challengers and chatting with John, Kev and Richard. In the early evening, most people headed off for a drink at the Masons and a burger or two, but I preferred to stay warm, dry and comfortable. I boiled the kettle in the conference room and rehydrated my last dry meal, Real Turmat Beef Casserole and an LYO Chocolate Pudding. They were both very good.
I went to bed, after chatting to TTS, popped in my Loop earplugs and listened to Sir Ian. I did acknowledge Lynsey returned from the Masons and we briefly chatted before she went to the bathroom, but I was asleep by the time she came back.
Day 14
Wednesday 20th May 2026
Planned Tarfside to Edzell
20km 190m
Actual As planned
22km 172m
Actually had a reasonable night! Lynsey and I awoke around the same and worked around each other really well to get packed. Lynsey rescued me from the spider that had hitched a lift in my pack from the locked bothy, I was very grateful.
I paid my bill and lost David almost immediately. Kev, Richard and I had breakfast booked at The Retreat, I was confident we would see David there, so we set off. It doesn't take too long to get to The Retreat, we tried not to route march along the road to look after our feet. When we arrived we found David, safe and well. We picked a table and got tea and coffee as we waited for our breakfast butties to arrive. I had also ordered a packed lunch which I collected as we left, although I ditched the banana.
We had a good walk all the way to the bridge at Gannochy via the Blue Door Walk, slow but steady with a few breaks, including sitting on the bridge at Cornescorn with Andy, Lindsay, Lynsey, Alistair Hunt, Carol and another young man. They all left ahead of us, in a rush to get to the hotel or campsite. We strolled and chatted, Richard was very conscious of not pounding along and making his feet sore.
At Gannochy bridge, we parted company, they were heading straight along the Lang Stracht to North Water Bridge and I took the riverside path to Edzell where I had a room booked at the Panmure Arms. It didn't take me as long as expected and I was soon at the hotel. I stopped for a very brief chat with Andrew and Lindsay, barely even a chat, then went to reception to book in. The chap was lovely, my room was paid for and he told me I could book dinner and breakfast extra if I wanted.
I went up to my room, had a lovely shower, then liberally decorated the room with my tent. It wasn't tent soup, just damp, so before I went to bed I was able to pack it away.
I had a tussle with myself. I didn't know if I had the nerve to go downstairs and eat dinner alone, it felt quite pathetic, but in the end, I decided I needed to eat so I should. I went to reception and the same nice man was there. I asked for a meal in the bar and he took me through himself and seated me in the far corner, perhaps thinking I would be less obvious. I asked for a pint of IPA while I chose my meal, then ordered a chicken burger. The food arrived quite quickly, but in the meantime, a young man approached my table and asked if I was a Challenger. He was first timer Johnnie McKenzie and I invited him to join me. His dessert arrived at his own table but then was brought over to mine. He was under the impression that "...some of the organisers and vetters are sitting outside, I said I'd go back and have a drink with them, you can join me if you like...", "I don't think there are any of the organisers here, they are a bit busy in Montrose at the moment, that's Colin at the bar, he's one of our longest serving vetters, but I haven't seen any others here.", "Oh, well everyone seems to know them."
Yup.
He told me of his adventures, particularly through The Monadliath, learning the hard way to take his time and enjoy himself. I think he'll be back.
Rob Slade, Peter Stickler and Steve Chesterton were seated next to my table, but they didn't chat.
I left after I'd finished my dinner, paid at the bar and took the rest of my beer to enjoy in my room. I organised my gear so I could get off to a flying start.
Let's get this done.
Day 15
Thursday 21st May 2026
Planned Edzell to St Cyrus
22km 250m
Actual Edzell to Montrose
21km 116m
I had another bad night, I realised too late that all I needed was paracetamol to calm my hot feet. I was up early and made three cups of tea. I had rolls and cheese for breakfast, although it was a bit of a struggle. I had snacks in my pockets, I'd survive.
I was ready to leave by 7.30pm, so I went down to reception to check out, the breakfast room is opposite the stairs and the doors were wide open.
The lady on reception was very cheery, I said goodbye to everyone as I left. Not one acknowledged me. Perhaps they had not seen me. Or heard me.
I walked along the High Street and through the arch as I left town, then along the path by the side of the road through Edzell Wood and to Inchbrae where I turned off for Smiddyhill. By this time, I was over my disappointment and holding my head high. I was going to finish my 10th Challenge and I would not be alone, because I had asked TTS to join me for the dinner and he was going to meet me at the beach.
Shortly after passing the school, I headed to Westerton of Stracathro to cross the A90 which I had been dreading. I paused briefly on the corner, waiting for a gap so that I could walk around the verge and wait again for another gap so I could make it to the central reservation. I only had to wait for two cars to be able to cross from there to the other side, that part of the mission was complete. I paused on the wide verge round the corner to gather myself, then headed off along the road to Hill of Stracathro, Muirton of Ballochy, North Mains of Dun, Dun and finally I met the A935 at Mains of Dun.
I turned east and headed to Montrose. After crossing the edge of town I joined the cycle path and headed to the beach at the first opportunity. As my boots hit the sand, TTS appeared at the top of the boardwalk and he jogged down to meet me. We walked together along the beach to avoid some tide pools, then we were able to head towards the sea and I dipped my toes.
That was it.
Job done.
I'm a Leg-End.
No fanfare.
No Challenge Family.
But my greatest and most long-suffering supporter was there, David, and he carried my pack to the car for me so we could go to The Park and celebrate together.
I had a very mixed Challenge. I set off with huge anxiety, worse than ever, but with some lovely friends to encourage me in the first two days, Kev, Richard, Kenneth and Andy from Ultralight. Once I got going, I spent five days walking completely alone, but actually perfectly happy in my own company and at my own pace. Three of those five days I had company in the evening, even if only briefly, but it was enough that I didn't feel lonely or homesick. I walked to the shoulder of Bynack More alone, but having been scooped up by Sue and Ngumo, we joined forces with John and the Easters and had a fabulously Epic Day, although it did seem quite hard at the time, Type 2 Fun.
I had an exceptionally lovely three days walking with Sue and Ngumo, they played a large part in making my 10th successful Challenge crossing both enjoyable and a triumph. They were wonderful company and if we weren't putting the world to rights, learning about each others lives, we were giggling like school girls at something ridiculous. It was wonderful.
More rain and wind was endured in the good company of David A and Colin, and then the penultimate day, back to where I began, with Kev and Richard. They lifted my spirits enough that I could see past the disappointment of the beginning of my last day and feel strong and so proud of myself as I reached the sea.
What next?
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