This may be a bit of a generalisation, but on this occasion it was true (but may have been our own fault, koff….)
Whilst we were in Gairloch recently, David had bought me a new book from Cicerone, Scotland’s Best Small Mountains. It’s a lovely little book that picks out some cracking walks often overlooked because of something better known in the area, and the walk we’d chosen was one of those, Creag Dubh and The Argyll Stone. Creag Dubh is technically a lower top of Sgor Gaoith, the first Munro I climbed and the hill more often climbed on this ridge.
I had considered parking the car at Inverdruie and walking through to Loch an Eilein to avoid paying £1.50 per person, but I was glad we hadn’t in the end. I reasoned that we often use the footpaths around this area and the powder room facilities, but rarely the car park, perhaps we should occasionally to be fair, to contribute to the upkeep of them!
After donning boots and gaiters, we set off towards said powder rooms, next to the shop and outside of which are a couple of picnic benches. Perfect then for a coffee break.
After our coffee and Tiffin break, followed by a visit to the powder room, we set off along the west side of the loch on this beautiful, sparkly day.
There were lots of people around, some walking, with and without dogs (some of which were barely under control) and some on bikes, with and without children (none of which were under control). When we reached our turn off at the smaller Loch Gamhna, we found that we left all these distractions behind, which was a bit of a relief. It also meant we had a smaller audience for any navigational errors that might occur.
The walk we had chosen suggested taking an overgrown path that did not appear on my map, so we decided to walk on to the path marked at Drakes Bothy. Seemed like a good idea at the time. We should have known we may regret that decision when map and compass had to be deployed to find the path we wanted. Shortly after setting off, the path disappeared and we were left to struggle our way uphill through the overgrown heather, blaeberries and wet mossy undergrowth. According to my GPS, we rarely deviated from where the path should have been, but we never found it. I was less than happy (although not whiney) at this point, I found the going really tiring. And sore.
Eventually the path that should have been would take us to and across Allt Coire Follais so we headed in that general direction. Ahead of us a middle aged couple hove into view, and by their puzzled expressions, I guessed they were perhaps where they expected be to and we weren’t. Sure enough, when our paths met and we reached them, we fell onto a path. The path that we probably should have taken in the first place. Hey ho. Onwards and upwards.
This path was at least there, if a little wet in places and sometimes hiding amongst a new obstacle, jaggy juniper. It was much easier going though by comparison and I felt much happier to continue.
Upwards, forever upwards. Not long after we’d left the couple behind (who never reappeared) David’s mobile rang. Several times as it took a bit of finger fumble to answer. Ciara was at work and was feeling unwell, they would keep here there for a while then take her home for Rhiannon to look after. A little tricky perhaps, but as we were half way up a hill, not much we could do about it so we carried on.
The path took us into a little overgrown ravine and up a steep slope to step out onto a broad, open hillside where the views behind us really began to open up. It was still an uphill slog, quite wet and spongy moss, shorter heather but still time consuming and quite tiring. I may at this point been a little more whiney, but our goal was in sight and I ploughed on.
Not too much later, David was climbing the Argyll Stone and I almost sprinted to reach the cairn first.
I wandered back to The Argyll Stone and was dared to climb up to really appreciate the view. David may have been slightly surprised when I accepted the challenge. So was I.
We had lunch in the shelter of the stone, the Flash was pressed into service again so that we could have Heinz Squeeze and Stir Tomato Soup along with our sandwiches, perfect for warming us as it was a little fresh up top. Soon we were on our way again, and I was practicing my map and compass work again just to make sure we took the right pathless route off the hill and down to meet the track out of Gleann Einich.
Coming off the hill, though pathless, was much easier going underfoot as although damp in places, the heather was far less likely to snag misplaced feet. The lichen was wet and slippery in places but didn’t really catch me out. Much.
We soon found ourselves on the track that would lead us towards Rothiemurchus and back to the car park. A long, hard day but we had such a good time. A brilliant walk on a beautiful, autumnal day. Fantastic.
Roughly 10.9 miles, 2,333 ft total ascent, 1.4 mph moving average.
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