I will start the way I always do, with an explanation of what it's all about, for those who have not read or heard about The Great Outdoors Challenge before.
The Great Outdoors Challenge is an annual event, sponsored by Ultralight Outdoor Gear. Each September, over four hundred folk apply to take part and a draw for places is made around the end of October. Three hundred and fifty or so folk gain a place and an unlucky few will be placed on the Stand By List to fill the boots of those that have/choose to withdraw before the end of November. Each Challenger or group (of up to four) submits a route of their own design and planning, starting at one of the fourteen start points on the west coast, making their way unsupported across Scotland to finish anywhere on the east coast between Fraserburgh and Arbroath, then catch the train, bus or walk to Montrose to sign back in. The start points are, from north to south, Torridon, Strathcarron, Plockton, Dornie, Shiel Bridge, Glenelg, Mallaig, Morar, Lochailort, Acharacle, Oban, Ardrishaig, Kilchoan and Portavadie.
Four phone calls must be planned and made to Challenge Control to check up on progress, phone calls must also be made if major route changes occur, or if someone is unlucky enough to have to retire from the event (horrid, horrid phone call to make...) There are few rules, no running (why would you?!), no dogs, no unofficial crossings and no accompanying walkers to do an entire crossing (friends and family can join you for a few days)
This was to be my 10th TGO Challenge. Well, my 10th complete crossing. I have set off thirteen times before and had to retire four times, so I'm really hoping this will be my 10th successful crossing. Last year, I needed to prove to myself I could still walk across Scotland. With two incomplete crossings in recent years, my confidence had taken some punishment, and my brain was convinced I couldn't make it. Common sense told me I had crossed 8 times before, I just needed a little determination and encouragement. The solution had been to plan a route similar to my friend and fellow Challenger Laura who was also feeling less confident. That way, we could guarantee company of an evening when we camped together and during the day if we chose to walk together. The plan worked perfectly, Laura had sore feet and needed a little company and I was happy to oblige, in the end, we both successfully crossed Scotland.
This time, I needed to prove to myself I could still get across Scotland solo.
I settled on a route that I could reminisce previous Challengers, laying a few demons to rest along the way, with a light sprinkling of new ground to cover. The route I planned had me quite excited, I had a guaranteed place as it was my 10th, so I had to submit my route plan for vetting in November and, barring any significant changes, prepare for setting off 8th May 2025...
Thursday 8th May
Day 1
Laura had arrived the previous day and stayed overnight so that we could travel together to the start. After an early breakfast, Ciara gave us a lift to the station on her way to work and waved us off. I was still feeling quite nervous at this point, as usual.
We arrived in Inverness and walked to the bus station where we looked after each others packs so we could each powder our noses before catching the bus to Shiel Bridge. While we waited for the bus we played Spot the Challenger, but without much success. Once on the bus, we chatted and discussed our routes before having to alight the bus at Invergarry, cross the road and wait at the bus stop for our connection from Fort William. It arrived quite quickly and we had soon completed our bus journey and were ready to set off across Scotland once again.
Well, nearly. First there was the small matter of signing out, dipping toes, powdering noses (again) and having coffee and a snack...
New Boots!!
By the time we set off, I had persuaded Laura that there was potentially more shade on my route over Bealach an Sgairne than through Glen Lichd, so she had opted to walk with me. I was delighted to have the company, my nerves dissipated and I was feeling much better.
We wandered along this quiet road, eventually passing the turn off for Glen Lichd. Laura continued with me. After about 300m or so we took the path to head from Strath Croe into Gleann Choinneachain and on to Bealach an Sgairne. We took a break soon after Innis a' Chrotha, a snack and a drink were required before we continued making our way gradually up hill. The path is clear and easy to follow, we had dappled shade some of the time and we met a surprising amount of people heading in the opposite direction, having finished their day on the hill already. Most were friendly and stopped to chat, some had even heard of the Challenge.
We stopped for another longer break by the Allt Coire an Sgairne, chatting with a couple of fellas also heading down off the hill. The river was not in spate this time, the last time I was here on my first Challenge, the rivers were all in spate.
We collected some water to get us over the steepest and highest part of our route before heading down into Gleann Gniomhaidh and our camp for the night
The turn into Glen Lichd
We descended from the bealach and the temperature dropped in the shade of the hills, it was a blessed relief. As we picked our way down carefully, I became aware of a group of tents in the distance on the shore of the loch. I had thought there might be somewhere we could pitch there, if we decided to stop a bit early, but this was off putting. It was a group of four or five tents, we thought it unlikely they were Challengers, perhaps DofE? Anyway, we continued and eventually we were walking past their camp. There were a dozen or so youngsters and three adults. On chatting with them, we learned they were from a school that regularly visit this area and hire out the hostel (hence, Challengers can't get a bunk...) and they take the children for a couple of nights camping to give them the wilderness experience.
Obviously, we didn't want to camp too close, so decided to walk on as far as we were comfortable before pitching.
We were both getting tired by this time, the heat had taken its toll, Laura had a stumble that gave her quite a fright, but we were not far from my planned stop and decided to pitch on the next suitable patch of ground, a little off the path and closer to the river.
We soon found the perfect spot and the tents were pitched, packs emptied, water collected and tea made. I don't think Laura had anything to eat and I couldn't be bothered with a hot meal, so I had cheese rolls and chocolate with my sleepy tea before settling down with Sir Ian in bed.
Actually, quite a good day!
Planned 13km 580m
Actual approx 13.87 km 573m total ascent
Friday 9th May
Day 2
We had a good night and woke to a lovely, dry morning. We didn't have to wait long for our tents to be dry enough to pack, whilst we waited we had breakfast and tea before packing our rucksacks, dropping the tents and getting them packed away. We set off about 9am, not too bad after our first camp, but earlier might have been better, given the sharp rise in temperature as we started to walk through the glen. We took a long break at the junction with the track from Gleann Lichd before continuing on, past the Youth Hostel and on in to Glen Affric.
It was a long, slow walk, the heat was unrelenting and there was absolutely no shade from the sun. There was no water to speak of until we reached Athnamulloch, so we were just taking regular sips so as to not run out before we got there. We rested, had a snack and collected water. I soon decided I should walk with Laura along her route and forego my intended stay at Cougie. I would avoid the slog uphill to find the track and cut short my day by about 9km, this was appealing. I was also a little concerned about Laura, the heat was affecting her quite badly and I would not have been happy to leave her by herself.
After our rest, we continued up the track on the south of the loch, aiming for the Loch Affric car park where I have camped before, in 2019. It is not encouraged to camp there, but there are toilets and I feel that stopping for one night, leaving no trace and with the use of the toilet has far less environmental impact than trying to find a wild camp.
Along this track, before we reached the Allt Garbh, we were joined by another Challenger, Lewis Jevons. Lewis was wonderful company, interesting and interested. He was feeling a little down when he joined us as he had seen no other Challengers and was a little lonely. He soon perked up in our company and kept us entertained as we wandered along together. There was a small group of Challengers camping by the Allt Garbh, a known tick infested site, so we continued on our way.
Looking west, along Glen Affric
It was a huge relief to eventually reach our proposed stop. We were a little disappointed to find a couple wheeling trolleys full of camping gear from their car to pitch by the picnic table at the bottom of the steps, but we climbed up to find more picnic tables and a patch of grass big enough for the three tents. We had a pleasant evening chatting as Lewis and I ate our dinner, Laura was very unwell however, and we soon all retired to bed after a long day, exhausted by the heat. Sir Ian lulled me to sleep.
A Laser Competition between two X Mids
Planned 24km 450m
Actual approx 19.62km 307m total ascent
Saturday 10th May
Day 3
The plan today was to head into Cannich and on to the campsite there. We'd had a good night and were up at a good time, but Lewis is an early bird and he set off about 7am to get most of his walk done before the heat of the day. Laura and I waited a while for our tents to dry, fending off the midges as we ate breakfast and packed away our gear. After dropping the tents and powdering our noses, we set off around 9am or a little later. Laura was feeling brighter, and as there would be shade today, we thought things would go better.
It wasn't long before we realised it was still going to be quite the struggle. There was no water so we were glad we had plenty and despite the shade, the heat in the trees was stifling. We took our time and rested often, having to sit on scrubby bits of ground where available. There is a distinct lack of benches on with to sit... We enjoyed what views there were, but there are not many.
We were eventually caught by some Challengers, including the lovely Jim Davidson, but we didn't even try to keep up with them, they didn't seem to be affected by the heat.
We arrived at the Dog Falls car park in time for a late lunch, but unfortunately had to sit at a bench in blazing sun as the others were all taken. There was, however, a small motorhome from France and Laura struck up conversation with the couple who were on holiday. She blagged some water, which was a huge relief, and we were soon on our way again, having opted to stay on the road rather than climbing up through the forest on the Kintail Affric Way which is very slightly longer.
As luck would have it, a little while later, the little French motorhome slowed as they passed us and asked if we'd like a lift.
We jumped at the chance and were soon aboard with our packs, the decision unconsciously made that the Challenge was over for both of us this year...
Planned 17km 86m
Actual approx 15.41km 177m total ascent
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