Sunday, 17 October 2010

More along than up, take two

So, back to yesterday. (You may find it helpful to read the previous post first, to make more sense of this one!)
We set off along the good tracks once again, through Ryvoan pass, past the Green Lochan and off towards Bynack Stables. It’s always very busy around here, which is a draw back and we were passed by several walkers and cyclists, although mostly on their way back. We met one rather large group of around two dozen OAPs coming down the path from Ryvoan Bothy towards Glenmore. “Where’s the coach?” whispered David.
SDC10682@ On our way
SDC10686@ The Green Lochan was as green and strangely beautiful as ever, so we made the effort to go down the steps for a better view.
We soon had views of Ryvoan Bothy and Meall a Bhuachaille behind us as we continued up the winding path towards the remains of Bynack Stables and the little bridge across the River Nethy.
SDC10689@Ryvoan Bothy
SDC10699@
The last time we were up there was for my **th birthday and we took our children (even the non-outdoorsy one!) up their first Corbett.
SDC10694On we went
When we reached the bridge, we had a lunch break whilst we enjoyed the views behind and ahead and counted red deer at the top of the hill in front of us.
SDC10702@The bridge over the River Nethy
SDC10707@ Looking towards Bynack Mor
SDC10706@
Not clapping, gelling!
SDC10708@
We crossed the bridge to find the ‘vague path’
SDC10710SDC10713@SDC10714@
We continued on this disappearing and reappearing path, staying close to the Nethy, clambering our way over rocks, through knee high heather, hopping boggy bits and over slightly cleared bits.
We had a GPS with us this time, to help us pinpoint where the path supposedly peters out and we should cross the ‘dried loch bed’, but we had also been set some navigational tasks by our team leader to practice map and compass skills. I also practiced my route finding skills and suggested we circumnavigate anti-clockwise (we went clockwise last time, it was a real mare!) or alternatively, cross where the ground was less green and therefore marshy looking, to try to keep dry feet. We could at least see the rubble of a previous settlement we were supposed to head for and pick up the next path, so that was the route we took. And stayed dry. Even when we had to cross Allt Fionna Choire!
SDC10718@ Spot the boggy bit
The path meanders on past a few small lochans before reaching the first ford and entering Abernethy Forest, then dropping down to the River Nethy.
SDC10726@ We crossed the first ford, Ministry of Funny Walks style
As Ciara and I waited for David and the boys to cross, Ciara had a little wobble and was understandably a bit nervous. I reassured her she’d be fine and David came back to give her a hand, but I was determined to cross alone…
SDC10733
Crossing the second ford
SDC10734
On foot
SDC10735And bum
SDC10736With style
This has obviously become a well known route, the tree trunk has been worn quite smooth and is muddy. It had been raining earlier. I had a mucky bum, but dry feet! (I did have to help in the end, but I didn’t cry.)
We had a bit of a struggle through the undergrowth to cross the little burn and climb the bank to rejoin the path, but we were all in one piece and mostly dry, Ciara and Aedan had gained a wet foot each somewhere along the way. The path winds it’s way gently back along the Pass to the bothy and then on to Glenmore Lodge once more and the  only reason it was getting dark at this point again was because we’d set off so late, just before midday, but we were in the car eating the rest of our snacks and drinking hot chocolate and soup before we needed to get torches out of our packs.
It was a better walk this time, there were definitely cleared bits in the middle of nowhere that helped and finding a better route across the the dried loch bed rather than struggling round the edge made up a lot of time. The weather was perfect, dry after a little early drizzle, clear but not baking sun and warm enough not to need a coat with no breeze to cause a chill at rest stops.
Roughly 10.3 miles
4 hours 30 minutes walking
1 hour 58 resting
1128 ft of up overall
This was obviously not a test of climbing ability, but of endurance. I think it’s the longest walk to date that the children have done and they all coped very well, they certainly weren’t as exhausted as I had been last time! It was also good to practice and gain confidence with my compass and map reading abilities in an area I know well enough to not get lost!
Another Grand Day Out.

More along than up, take one

David and I took the three that walk out again yesterday and we returned to a very familiar area, Glen More.

At this time of year, about six years ago (not entirely sure) David and I had a little trip to this area without children. We camped at Coylumbridge, an excellent site with the best toilet block ever. When we got up next morning, there was frost on the tent and it was a decidedly chilly day. We went to park the car near Glenmore Lodge and set off on foot for a little adventure. Little did I know…

We walked along relatively good paths, through sleet, snow and rain, to cross a bridge at what remains of Bynack Stables. Here, we were to take what was described on our route sheet as ‘a vague path’ downstream along the River Nethy. Vague was really non-existent in places, so when we were supposed to cross a dried loch bed ‘when the path peters out’, we missed it and struggled on through heather, bog, jumping streams and it went on and on forever. The best bit was a red deer stag, suddenly appearing on a high point ahead of us and posing for the camera we’d sadly forgotten. It was a little close for comfort considering the time of year, but he was a stag on a mission and had no interest in us.

We struggled on, eventually meeting the path we wanted, crossed a ford before heading into Abernethy Forest. We knew we had another ford to cross and I was horrified when we eventually found it. It was deep and fast, even a Landover would have struggled and after pacing the banks, we decided on a route downstream to cross the footbridge at Forest Lodge, adding roughly three miles to our walk, but we’d have dry feet. However, we met a lady working for the RSPB out for a quick walk before a meeting. After a brief chat, she assured us there was a safe way to cross at the ford, so we followed her down the track again.

“It’s over here,” she explained, as she disappeared up a steep bank and over the top. We followed. “Here it is!” she smiled, pointing to a large tree across the river. Up she hopped and trotted across said tree, closely followed by David. Up I clambered and paused, practicing some deep breathing exercises for a second or two. “You can go on your hand and knees if you like!” was the helpful call from hubby. Bum was my preferred option, although tricky with roots and then branches sticking out all over the place. I had visions of plopping into the raging torrent below and floating downstream.

We made it, followed the Mountain Goat up the opposite bank, across a further stream and up through more undergrowth to rejoin our path. “Please, don’t make yourself late, we know where we are, we’ll be fine!” I panted, desperately trying to gather my wits, and off she trotted.

It was far less eventful after that, but I was seriously flagging  by now and every step was just a step too far, this was before I’d really got back into walking seriously. After what seemed like an eternity, Ryvoan Bothy came into view and we knew we were nearly back to the car. We had, by this time, decided another night in the tent was beyond me. My boots were soaking from the bog hopping, I was sore and exhausted from all the holes I’d fallen down and so the Nethybridge Hotel seemed like a very good idea. Oh, the miracle of the mobile phone, within minutes, David had secured a double room with dinner, bed and breakfast. It was starting to get dark by this time, but the lure of a hot bath and a dram spurred me on and we were soon back to the car and on our way to a comfy bed and a hot meal.

Sunday, 10 October 2010

First and third

Yesterday, we decided to take three of our children up their first Munro (my third), the eldest having decided to stay at home, outdoors isn't her thing.
It was a beautiful day, clear blue skies, quite warm with a slight breeze. We'd chosen A' Chailleach, just north of Newtonmore. We left the car in the car park just before the bridge and set off on a lovely path past woodland and beside the Allt a Chaorainn. We easily found the small cairn marking the track down to the bridge.

 The rickety bride

Looking upstream, Allt a Chaorainn

Soon after the bridge, the ground became boggy and never really improved, the path was quite indistinct in places. The boys took the lead, as usual, but they travel light, unlike Ciara and myself who carry a little extra padding for comfort, (she's built just like her mother!) We eventually reached the bothy where we stopped for a lunch break before continuing up An Leitir and towards our goal.
Lunch at the bothy

We didn't mind too much that we were slightly off track, due to the disappearing path, we could see it wasn't going to give us any problems reaching the summit.

Woo hoo! (David managed to include himself in the picture, just to prove he was there too!)
 The views north
The views south. It looks a bit bleak and I suppose it would be on a rubbish day.

We knew we'd been off track slightly, so I practiced a bit of compass and map work to take us back down the true path to the bothy and it was no less boggy. It was quite a giggle as we bog-hopped our way off the hill and Ciara and I both took unplanned rests as we slid gracefully to sit in the bog.

Snap!

I managed to sink up to my left knee in a bit of unexpected bog, but I was just checking the effectiveness of my beloved merino kit. My Icebreaker knickers dried quickly after their ducking (so did my Marmot scree pants) and my merino mitts kept my hands cosy despite being damp (and mucky, yuk!) and my Foothills socks are just amazing. Despite a good bog soaking and the initial freezing cold, my foot was soon warm and snug again inside my boot and there was none of the usual rubbing you might expect from a wet sock. Fabulous.
There was wildlife too, but no photographs as I wasn't in charge of the camera. We saw plenty of raven, they are so playful and obviously having loads of fun as they fly to and from wherever. There were mountain hare, golden plover, red deer hind, red grouse and loads of red/orange harvestman type spiders, I've never seen so many on a hill! We could hear red deer stags roaring in the glens below us which was an extraordinary experience, second only to being with my children atop their first Munro.
Magical.

7.14 miles
3 hours 52 minutes moving
2 hours 22 minutes resting
1.8 average mph
2067 ft ascent

Wednesday, 22 September 2010

Not mine, David’s

It was not a Monday or a Bank Holiday, so we figured it would be quieter in the hills yesterday. Slight miscalculation perhaps. Even the slightly dodgy weather didn’t  stop everyman and his dog heading for the hills today! But this one was for David’s list, not mine. He needs to document twenty ‘quality’ walks for a personal project he’s working on, so I’m tagging along because I can!
Off we set, south towards the Cairngorms and then slightly west to the car park near Auchlean. At 10.20 am we set off at a good pace along a short stretch of road and then headed up the path towards Carn Ban Mor.
When we last came this way, it took nearly three hours to get to the  3370 ft point. This time, the regular walking, food diary and less alcohol has obviously paid off as we were a good hour quicker. We’d started in fair weather, although  the cloud base was quite low and we’d hoped this would clear before we reached the top. At roughly 2320 ft, it began to get breezy. Very breezy. David estimated 40-50 mph gusts, but I just know it was trying to blow me over! The next 1000 ft were hard work, staying upright was decidedly tricky as we were buffeted about and I began to dread the rest of the walk, thinking we must be mad and possibly even putting ourselves in danger. But then, so was everyman and his dog!
We played hare and tortoise with a group of four chaps, one of whom was really struggling and we worried that he was left behind his group alone. They stopped and waited from time to time, but then he didn’t get a rest as he caught up and they moved on again. It struck me as perhaps not good practice. As we entered the cloud base (still being buffeted) they realised they were beginning to lose sight of him more quickly, but the track eventually levelled off and we hoped they’d be able to stay together better as they struck north-ish and we struck south-ish. We’d been passed by two couples, the second with a dog and the first couple obviously hadn’t gone beyond Carn Ban Mor as they soon loomed out of the murk ahead on their way back down.
SDC10655 Looking back towards Carn Ban Mor
SDC10656And this is where we are going… 
As we continued the wind dropped significantly although we were still in the clouds and our walk across Moine Mhor  felt vast, remote and barren. Soon, a figure appeared in the cloud ahead and a lone walker with huge pack passed with a cheery wave on his way in the opposite direction. We were quite confident even in the poor visibility, but regularly stopped to check with map and compass, cross-referenced with the Geko. A huge cairn marked a Landover track which we took and followed to a small ford. Here, we met another chap, map in hand, who asked if the path to Carn Ban Mor was easy to spot. He knew exactly where he was and just wanted reassurance which was understandable in the conditions. After the ford, we stopped for lunch, I was quite peckish by now and tucked into peanut butter sandwiches and hot chocolate,
On we went, soon to meet a group of  eight or nine men with the two at the front probably leaders from Glenmore as they wore matching jackets and they were all well equipped. Soon after, we met the couple with the dog on their way back, we couldn’t be far now.
At a significant junction, we found a couple of gentlemen consulting their map and GPS. They were in there late 60s, early 70s and we struck up conversation as we were all headed for the same high point. Off we went together into the gloom. A short while later, a cairn marked the vague path to the cairn of my second Munro, Mullach Clach a Bhlair. Yey!
SDC10657 Very cuddly, apparently!
We took photographs of each and then we had a gear faff while the gentlemen (I didn’t get their names ‘cos I’m a numpty, but one was originally from Leicestershire but has lived in Fife for several decades now) struck off using GPS to make their way back to the track off path. We stuck with the path (although David tried to take the wrong one, I wouldn’t let him!) and soon returned to the main track and made our way down off the hill. It’s a good path down, not rocky or rutted, but quite a gradient all the way and this gave mine and David’s knees some gip, which is an unusual complaint for either of us. The gentlemen, however, didn’t seem to be having the same problem. We had seen them just ahead of us on the path, but they were soon way ahead as we had a photograph stop and we were never in any danger of catching them up!
SDC10659David thought this would have been spectacular, without the cloud
SDC10660SDC10661Before the pain
SDC10662SDC10663  Looking back as we dropped out of the cloud
SDC10664Looking ahead to Glen Feshie 
I was so relieved to get to level ground, I was in quite some pain and had to resort to paracetamol as we needed to get back home at a reasonable time. To add insult to injury, we soon came to a ford at Allt Garbhlach, which I had been expecting, but hadn’t twigged it would be quite so substantial! David waited whilst I paced the bank, trying to find somewhere I was happy to cross, but admitted defeat and he helped me across, despite my whinging and tears. (I have this planned on my Challenge route. I’m going to have to do some serious thinking…).
On we went towards Achleum and then the farm at Auchlean. Another ford! But it was David who misjudged it and got wet feet. The path is slightly rerouted from what we had been expecting, but we were soon on the road back to the car park. Once on level ground, my pain had lessened greatly and I was so pleased my feet weren’t remotely sore. It was the first time I’d worn my Foothills socks on a longer, more rugged walk with no zinc oxide tape and the socks were marvellous!

14.3 miles
3046 ft ascent
3054 ft descent
2.5 mph average
5 hrs 49 mins moving
1 hr 43 mins stopped

Actually, I felt quite a sense of achievement after this walk, the practice using a map and compass work and ford crossing (hate this, must practice more!) was good and I got the high that others claim to have after running. I've never had that after running, it tends to be more of a relief that it's over, which I don't think counts.
PS. I did notice the above discrepancy, but it amused me.

Sunday, 5 September 2010

Five Walk to the Pub and take the Scenic Route Home

On Saturday, 4th September, Angela, Jo, Sally, Rikky and I set off from Orchard Road car park in Forres towards the back road past Waterford to Kinloss. This was all very uneventful, for a change, but there was a large volume of traffic on what is usually a very quiet back road.

It was a beautiful day, the Sally Effect prevailed and we had clear blue skies, barmy temperatures and at times, the perfect cooling breeze. Definitely no rain!

At this point we were breaking the 3.2 mile an hour average as we gently steamed towards our first coffee break at the bird hide on Findhorn Road. We arrived at an empty car park and wandered aimlessly to find somewhere to park our behinds. We were shortly joined by three cars (mainly containing OAPs) and another walker.

Soon, we continued on our way. Somebody had mentioned, again, that "It's a perfect day for Pimms!" so we headed for the pub. Did it matter that it was before midday? That, in fact, it was only just past 11am? Sally and I looked at each other. NO! So, on we went to the Crown and Anchor. Which was shut. We had twenty minutes till the bar opened, what to do? They only have one toilet, it would take, ooo, twenty minutes for us to all take advantage of their porcelain, so we waited!

And waited.
And waited.
At 11.30 am we were told, "Oh no, we won't be open till 12 pm now."

So, we went to The Kimberley.

They wanted our business and opened the bar, just for us, switched on the cash register and lemonade pump, sliced lemons and limes and presented five, refreshing Pimms and lemonade for our delectation. The barman also tried to persuade us to have a meal, but we'd already tarried quite a while, so made off in search of the Water Taxi.

We found said Water Taxi and a very nervous young man made his way to the floating pontoon with five giggly, middle-aged women. We all donned our sexy bouyancy aids and wobbled onto the boat, giggled some more and off we went. Squealing all the way. What fun! This made Angela's day, and she's done it before!

The nervous young man was only too pleased to deposit us on the beach and sped off to the safety of Findhorn Marina without delay, relief all over his face.

We faffed a while, jackets on and off, waterproof trousers dried off in the wind from a coffee spill, camera in and out of it's case and then we were off again. I don't like struggling over sand, so we cut up the beach into Culbin Forest only to take a wrong turn (mine, what a muppet) back to the beach, which was now shingle. We struggled along the shingle beach a while before making our way towards Binsness, where we found a nice sunny spot for yet more refreshment and nourishment. And fend off wasps. So we set off again for a stroll through the forest before leaving the trees behind at Wellside Farm and making our merry little way to the ford and towards Broom of Moy.
Jo went for a paddle, which she thoroughly enjoyed, but couldn't persuade anyone to join her.

We strolled on, covering several serious subjects as we strolled, before reaching Broom of Moy and crossing the bridge back to Forres.

Jo and Angela were aghast that I had never been to Lidl.
I have now!

And there it all came to an end, as Jo's husband and son appeared, by chance, disappeared and then, as if by magic, reappeared with Jo's transport from the other car park.

What a day, pub, boat trip and shopping, what more could a girl ask for?

The statistics go something like this:

12.3 miles
190 ft ascent
206 ft descent
4 hrs 24 mins walking
1 hr 59 mins resting
2.9 mph average
(0.37 miles on a boat included)

More down than up, we like that!