I should probably start with an explanation of what it's all about, for those who have not read or heard about The Great Outdoors Challenge before.
The Great Outdoors Challenge is an annual event, sponsored by Ultralight Outdoor Gear. Each September, over four hundred folk apply to take part and a draw for places is made around the end of October. Three hundred and fifty or so folk gain a place and an unlucky few will be placed on the Stand By List to fill the boots of those that have/choose to withdraw before the end of November. Each Challenger or group (of up to four) submits a route of their own design and planning, starting at one of the fourteen start points on the west coast, making their way unsupported across Scotland to finish anywhere on the east coast between Fraserburgh and Arbroath, then catch the train, bus or walk to Montrose to sign back in. The start points are, from north to south, Torridon, Strathcarron, Plockton, Dornie, Shiel Bridge, Glenelg, Mallaig, Morar, Lochailort, Acharacle, Oban, Ardrishaig, Kilchoan and Portavadie.
Four phone calls must be planned and made to Challenge Control to check up on progress, phone calls must also be made if major route changes occur, or if someone is unlucky enough to have to retire from the event (horrid, horrid phone call to make...) There are few rules, no running (why would you?!), no dogs, no unofficial crossings and no accompanying walkers to do an entire crossing (friends and family can join you for a few days)
This year, I had decided to start from Oban again, I had some unfinished business. Laura also had some unfinished business from last year, although not from Oban. However, it was clear we both wanted to complete at least one more Challenge, and I had the idea that if we were to plan a really clever route (for which I take all the credit...) we could choose to walk together, or not, and at least meet up each night to camp for the first week. That would give us the opportunity to debrief each evening, have a good whinge and a moan and offer each other the encouragement and support we might need to keep going. Just knowing we would see a familiar friendly face every evening is actually quite motivating.
Despite all the planning and forethought, I was really anxious in the last month before we set off. So anxious I felt sick and lost my appetite, I actually lost weight, which is ridiculous. Even a heart to heart with Laura, despite being reassuring, still didn't really make me feel better. But as we set off for Oban, we were both feeling quite positive and confident we could cross Scotland, at least once more.
Day 0
Wednesday 8th May
Home to Oban
Tuesday hadn't quite gone to the original plan, but after some clever negotiations and extraordinary help, Laura arrived with her rucksack and overnight necessities so that we could set off for Oban together first thing. Ciara gave us a lift to the station and stayed to wave us off on our way to make the first connection, the bus to Fort William from Inverness. This went without a hitch and we were soon standing with our packs, Challenger Spotting at the bus station. We did see a few eventually, speaking to Gavin as we boarded our bus.
The journey went well and we arrived in Fort William in plenty of time to visit the powder room and find a bench to eat our sandwiches before catching the bus to Oban. As we were loading our packs onto the bus, I saw a familiar face and realised we had in fact travelled on the first bus with another fellow Challenger and friend, Mike Barras. On the bus, we bagged a row of three seats and spent a happy hour or so catching up and discussing routes. When we arrived, we had time to kill before we were able to book in to our respective accommodations, so we found a coffee shop with a small choice of cakes and a table outside at which to enjoy them. Who should come bowling along but Kevin Everett! He joined us and we continued the Challenge chat before I suggested Mike join us for dinner. Arrangements were made to meet later and we left to find our rooms.
This first accommodation started a trend that was to continue in all the hotels we stayed, top floor rooms...
Our room at the Corran House Hotel
There were five happy Challengers at dinner, me, Laura, Mike, Kev and Trev, and we had a lovely meal, enjoying pasta or pizza and ice creams. It was delightful and Laura and I returned to our room feeling positive and keen to get started...
Day 1
Thursday 9th May
Planned
Oban to Barcaldine Campsite
23km 390m
Actual
As above, but not by the planned route
23km 266m
We woke to find the skies were grey and it was raining, with varying levels of persistency. The positivity of the previous evening deserted us and we really struggled to get up, packed and on our way, procrastinating to the last minute when we really had to force ourselves out of the door to head for the Youth Hostel and sign out, at roughly 08:00, then returned to the hotel to collect our rucksacks and finally set off, at around 09:20. This was another trend for the next ten days or so, the Late Start.
We set off through Oban, bumping into the lovely David Pickles at the bus stop, waiting for a bus to Acharacle to start his Challenge the following day. We had a chat and he tried really hard to motivate and encourage us. We left him in the rain to find a coffee shop before we left town, this would also become a habit. We found Cuan Mor, went inside and took a table. We drank tea and coffee and powdered our noses, before finally deciding we could put it off no longer, donned our packs and headed out into the rain once more.
Laura had been dreading 'the hill' we had to climb as we left Oban, heading for Glen Cruitten. I had no memory of it. In the end, we found it wasn't so bad and we plodded our way to the turn off near the golf course. It did cross my mind that I was not fit enough for the challenge ahead, my thighs were complaining at the load I had put on my back, all 12kg of it. I worried I was ill prepared and had set myself up for failure. A wet start was not helping.
This is the old cycle route that eventually turns to a track, running alongside the railway before heading down towards Connel. Here we found the first bench of the crossing, it had stopped raining and started to brighten up and as it was now lunch time, we took a seat and ate our lunch, watching what appeared to be the inshore rescue team practicing in the river estuary. Now the weather had cheered up, we did too, and we set off again along the cycle path and then the new pedestrian walkway beside the Connel Bridge. We had good views of the Falls of Lora and of some kayakers having fun in the strong, tidal waters as we crossed the bridge.
The first Bench of Requirement of the crossing
And the view
Once over the bridge, we continued along the cycle path heading north, having decided not to follow our route along the coffin path from Achnaba to Barcaldine. The path, with its dappled shade, took us passed the Oban Airport and Ledaig campsite, which doesn't take tents. Today was proving to be slow, so this seemed to be the most sensible option for the first day. The main advantage of taking our time was we got to enjoy the views and the flora and fauna around as we continued our journey and take rests on the occasional benches that were mostly conveniently placed.
The view from one of the conveniently placed Benches of Requirement
We paused by a large metal gate to have a jacket faff and whilst doing so, I spied a pencil on the ground. Laura had earlier realised she had forgotten her pencil, so was delighted by the Pencil of Requirement provided for her. Even better, at Benderloch we found the Ben Lora Cafe and Bookshop was still open, so obviously we popped in and ordered a pot of tea and a cake each. The young lady who served us was an absolute delight, so friendly and chatty, totally in awe of what we were doing.
Cute gate at the Ben Lora Cafe and Bookshop
The start of a bad habit, tea and cake
Water Avens
We had a nice break before setting off once more on the last leg to our planned campsite, Barcaldine Camping and Caravanning Club site. It was still a couple of hours away, so about halfway, when we found ourselves perched on a convenient bench (an advantage of walking cycle paths...) Laura rang the campsite to make sure someone would still be available to book us in when we arrived.
The plodding continued and eventually, we arrived. It was just before 19:00, so had been a long day, but there had been much resting, pausing and snacking, so we felt pretty good. The pitch we were given was not great, tents are not really wanted at these kind of sites, the ground was stony and very wet in places, getting pegs in to the ground was not easy and there were midges around due to the lack of a breeze, but eventually the tents were pitched and I took myself off for a shower before having dinner and heading to bed.
Sir Ian started reading to me for the first time this Challenge, bliss.
Day 2
Friday 10th May
Planned
Barcaldine to Achindarroch Campsite
23km 510m
Actual
Barcaldine to Lagnaha Campsite
25km 213m
Leave no trace...
Friday dawned warm and dry, but very still. With all the moisture in the ground, the tents were sopping with condensation, so we waited for as long as we could before we headed off. Just as well, as we were tired and grumpy after a poor nights sleep and it took us a while to get going. Some of our tent neighbours had been playing banjo and singing until late into the night, which was not conducive to sleep. A complaint was made to the wardens on departure.
It was just gone 10:00 as we left the campsite and continued along the cycle path, heading first north and then rather disturbingly north west for a few kilometres to Portnacroish, before heading north east to Duror. The plan had been for me to head along Glen Stockdale from Kinlochlaich before heading to Achindarroch to meet up with Laura again, but I opted to walk along the cycle path as it was looking like another hot day and my planned route would be exposed, up hill and hard work. That didn't sound like fun.
We were about 5kms in to the day, about lunch time, when we reached the Creagan Inn. As luck would have it, the inn was open and served coffee and scones, so to help preserve our water (I knew it would be difficult to replenish further along the route, having walked it last year) obviously we found ourselves a table and enjoyed hot beverages and scones fresh from the oven, which were delicious.
The shady cycle path
Tea and fresh scones at the Creagan Inn
We set off again, grateful for a little dappled shade and the occasional breeze to help keep us cool.
As we approached the Jubilee Footbridge from Port Appin, we met a small gaggle of Challengers. First Maggie Hems, Julie Munkeby, Keith and Annabel Barr. We had a short chat, they were heading to the Creagan Inn on their way towards Glen Creran for the night. Soon after we saw them, we bumped into Issy Silkowski with Allen and Fran Mellors. They were heading in the same general direction as ourselves, but were feeling slightly fresher, so we took a rest on the next, rather ornate, bench whilst they went on ahead. We would see them again over the next few days.
Stalker Castle
We had a long rest, boots off and something to eat, before taking to the cycle path again. I remembered the benches being quite closely placed initially, then fewer and further between, so we tried to make the most of them and rest when we could. Laura found this day very tough, it was hot and felt never-ending, but we took our time and eventually we made it to Lagnaha Farm, where Clive gave us a warm and friendly welcome. This is not a campsite in the traditional sense, but I like their ethos and they happily look after weary foot and cycle travelers. We pitched our tents and made ourselves comfortable, having a hot meal and sleepy tea before bed. Clive invited us to join him to watch the northern lights that were forecast for that evening, but we were both asleep by the time they were due to show, Sir Ian had lulled me to sleep.
Day 3
Saturday 11th May
Planned
Achindarroch to Red Squirrel Campsite
18km 430m
Actual
Lagnaha Farm to Red Squirrel Campsite
18km 159m
I woke early and lay in my sleeping bag for a while, listening to the bird song and to ravens, cronking from above the crags opposite. We had another slow start, again waiting for the sun to dry off some of the condensation from our tents. It was nearly 10:30 when we eventually set off.
From the viewpoint above Kentallen over looking Loch Linnhe
Signs of the railway
It was easy walking along the cycle path again, although after we passed the bridge to North Ballachulish, the path was largely alongside the road and not so pleasant, but we knew it would be short-lived. A long boot break was taken on a wide verge just short of St John's Scottish Episcopalian Church, where we found later there was possibly a more comfortable place to stop, but it's always the way. We were only going a couple of kilometres further to the Visitor Information Centre cafe for another break, where we had tea and a jacket potato each. It wasn't the most exciting fare, but was sustenance, nonetheless. We also visited the powder room. As we left, we spotted the Mellors and Issy enjoying their refreshments outside, so Laura joined them while I nipped to Co-op to resupply. We were all heading to the Red Squirrel Campsite in Glencoe that night and after we left together they were soon ahead of us and striding away. We had another stop after a couple of kilometres, visiting a friend of Laura's that she had not seen for about 30 years. Genevieve and her husband Jim made us very welcome and plied us with ginger beer. After a good natter, we left their lovely garden and strolled alongside the river to the campsite, where Liam, the resident warden, made sure we found a comfortable, quiet corner for the night.
Laura, following in the wake of the Mellors and Issy
Looking west from our pitch at the Red Squirrel Campsite
After pitching our tents, I headed for the showers and Laura found herself a spicy bean burger and fries, which she shared with me when I returned to the pitch. Best tasting fries ever. After a sleepy tea, I was in my sleeping bag and listening to the dulcet tones of Sir Ian.
Day 4
Sunday 12th May
Planned
Red Squirrel Campsite to King's House Hotel
16km 390m
Actual
17km 417m (clearly a miscalculation during planning, no route change...)
An early start to the day, we were away by 09:00! This was aided by the fact there was a light breeze and our tents were quite dry. As we left, there was a water and toilet faff, I nearly left my waist pack in the toilet, but remembered in time and ran back to find it still hanging on the back of the toilet door. I didn't do that again for the rest of the walk.
I had some anxiety about today. Firstly, I wasn't entirely sure what to expect as we crossed the main carriage to find the path, but was confident it was there and we just had to take care crossing the road. I was more concerned about the short distance of road walking we would have to endure, about 500m on the wrong side of the crash barrier into the onward coming traffic (as per the Highway Code) at Allt-na-reigh. I had fingers crossed there would be a lull in the traffic at this point.
There was a lot of traffic on the road as we left the campsite and we had to stop every few metres to allow vehicles to pass. There were some poor examples of 'wild camping' along this road, both tents and vehicles.
Once on the little path heading east through Glencoe, it was largely an enjoyable experience. The scenery and mountains around us were stunning and often we were far enough from the road that the road noise was not too intrusive. There were a surprising amount of other walkers, few with any kind of bag or pack and only one or two with packs the size of ours. We were clearly the odd ones out. The weather was kind initially, even if a tad warm, so we were able to take many breaks. We were both beginning to relax and enjoy ourselves, maybe even believe we could both complete our crossing, but Laura was already having problems with her feet and had a few blisters. She managed them bravely throughout. I hate walking with blisters, so have nothing but admiration for her tenacity and determination.
Eventually we reached the short stretch I was dreading. There was clearly no other option, so we climbed the barrier and quickly, but carefully made our way alongside the carriageway. We tried to be mindful of where we were in relation to bends and lines of vision for vehicles on both sides of the road and stopped often to try to keep ourselves safe (I hung onto the barrier, I don't know why it makes me feel safer, but I certainly can't get any closer to it...) I thought it would take an age, but this section actually seemed to be over pretty quickly, we had to cross the carriageway to take an old track leading up and away from the road and then we could relax again. Having passed some nice looking spots for a break, we found a slightly more sloped and rocky spot around the corner, but the views were nice. Boots were removed and snacks eaten, yet more pleasantly fragrant people with no or small day packs passed us by and we felt out of place.
The walk through Glencoe
Views from our lunch stop
Shortly after setting off again, we felt a few spots of rain and decided to don the waterproofs. We nearly didn't, but glad we did, because the rain did in fact get quite heavy. We had to cross the road again a couple of times before joining the West Highland Way heading to King's House. At Altnafeadh, just before we crossed the road for the final time, a young lady approached us and asked for our help and advice. Her and her friends were on the WHW heading for Kinlochleven, but she had hurt her knee and thought she would struggle. Having seen us approach from a different direction from everyone else, she wanted to know if there was an easier path to follow. We tried to explain our route, that it was mostly off road with a short section on the road, but that it had taken us about 4 hours. Laura suggested they might be better trying to hitch or maybe even hailing a bus, but we couldn't really do much else for them ourselves. We did worry for them, they were American and really inappropriately dressed for walking in the Highlands of Scotland. It was difficult to leave them there.
Laura heading towards Kings House
Looking back towards Glencoe
Views from along the West Highland Way, Buachaille Etive Mor on the right
It continued to rain for most of the rest of our walk today until we were close to Kings House, at which point it was too warm to wear the waterproofs any longer and we had a bit of a faff before finally reaching our destination. Here, a mistake was made. We should have pitched our tents straightaway. But we didn't. We went to get some long, cold drinks, look at the bar menu and ask in vain at reception if there were any bunks or rooms available.
There were not.
My much improved mood at this point started to plummet. I had so nearly booked two bunks the week before, when they were still available, but hadn't in case one or both of us didn't make it that far. I should have had faith. I was so cross with myself and found it really hard to get passed my stupidity, especially now faced with the inevitable wet camp. I was furious with myself.
We ordered food in the bar, it was nice. We saw Esther who came over for a chat. She planned to walk on a couple of kilometres and camp, when it started to rain heavily shortly after she left we were worried about her. We eventually went back out to investigate the camping facilities, we found free public toilets, showers available and an outside tap for fresh water, where we filled our bottles up. We then returned to the camping field and as we wondered around looking for a half reasonable pitch, the heavens opened again, in an even more determined fashion than earlier. We hurried back to the bar for shelter. Poor Esther.
I exchanged a few rather stressed weather related messages with David. Laura was keeping an eye on her weather app and was reasonably confident there would be a short period later in the evening when we could pitch, so I bought peppermint tea for us both and we sat by a window and waited...
Another lady came over for a chat, initially assuming we were WHWers, like herself. We eventually explained that no, we weren't, that we were in fact walking across Scotland and we went on to detail the Challenge. She was surprised, but went on to tell us about her own adventures on the PCT or Appalachian trail or whatever it was, for six months last year. The hotel and pub were very busy, we saw Julie again, and Maggie Hems arrived in the bar but didn't see us. Eventually, the weather window arrived and we quickly donned the waterproofs and returned to the camping field. We did not faff, we did not ponder, we were on a mission. Due to the recent deluge, we could actually see where pools and puddles would likely form, this helped us decide where we would pitch, somewhat close together. No sooner were we pitched, which had taken less than ten minutes, the rain started to fall and we dived in to our respective tents. I have never been in a tent in such heavy rain, it was outrageously loud, I had to decide exactly what I would unpack, or how I could arrange my gear so it was easy to stuff back into my pack in a hurry if required. I was so glad we had eaten in the bar and decided I could forego my sleepy tea for one night.
Then came the lightning. Followed by the thunder.
I did not enjoy this. Not one little bit.
And I subsequently heard a few others hadn't been keen either.
Turned out, Laura went to sleep.
Eventually, the storm seemed to pass and I settled down with Sir Ian.
Day 5
Monday 13th May
Planned
Kings House Hotel to Doire na h-Innes NN 439 578
21km 380m
Actual
Probably as planned, Garmin died part way along Loch Laidon
The day dawned grey but warm, unsure whether it would be damp or brighten up. Walkers, WHWers and the odd Challenger left while we were getting organised, it made us feel as if we were running really late. We heard on the grapevine there had been a power cut in the bunkhouse overnight, there had been a noisy generator running and emergency lighting on till gone midnight. I suddenly felt lucky to have been in the relative comfort of my tent.
The lady we had chatted with the previous evening came to speak again, this time with her husband who is a complete whizz putting up a tent, apparently. It soon became clear they had walked the trail together the previous year, not solo as the impression she had given. He was not enjoying his WHW experience, it was too busy and dirty. We went to visit the facilities before we left, but as there was a reasonable queue already, we decided we could be bothered to wait and left. It was actually only 09:00 when we set off, so that was not bad. We imagined puzzled looks on faces as we made our way in the opposite direction to everybody else.
Looking back towards Kings House
Looking back along the well engineered track on the way to Black Corries Lodge
A couple of vehicles passed us on their way to Black Corries Lodge, including a recycling lorry. There are few spots that would have been nice to pitch, but I'd guessed so close to such a busy track, the lodge would move people on. A friendly estate worker passed us in his truck going the opposite direction, by the reaction of the highland cattle in an adjacent field, I would say he was there to serve breakfast.
As we approached the lodge, I could see what looked like logs made into benches, just off the track. I am known for imaging things (ask me about 'The Beer Tent'...) so kept quiet until we were quite close and I was quite sure they were indeed Benches of Requirement. Once I'd pointed them out, it was obvious we would have to take a seat, we could not pass them by, especially in such an unexpected place. As we were resting, we were joined by someone who looked distinctly like a Challenger and indeed turned out to be Rob MacAlister. We had a natter, he confessed to having no physical maps since his parcel had not materialised, then went on his way. We watched him disappear at speed, before deciding we should also probably head off across Rannoch Moor. We followed the diverted path that goes behind the lodge and then rejoins the main path on the other side. Another Challenger caught us up, I have forgotten his name, we chatted a while before he left us to follow in Rob's wake. We walked for a short while before deciding it was time for a cup of tea, stopping in a sheltered spot by Allt Dubh beag. I believe this was the only midday brew we had and it was very pleasant.
After a visit to the powder room, we heaved the packs and set off again. I had to take an unscheduled break shortly after due to stomach pain, but it soon settled down and I wandered along to catch Laura. The views across the moor were magnificent, but I was surprised as to how long we could see the road and vehicles in the distance. Eventually, we lost sight of the road completely.
During one of our pauses, I turned to speak to Laura and something caught my eye. "Oo, Laura, look at the size of that! That's no buzzard, that's an eagle!". We watched it soaring over the moor for a while before disappearing from sight. Then continued on our way to the end of the track where we had our last boots off break before tackling the expected bog hop.
Boots off break before the bog
We had quite the discussion as to which path we should take out of the three apparent options in front of us, but decided they all led in vaguely the same direction and they would probably end up in the same place, so we just plumped in the end. As long as we stayed relatively close to the line of pylons that cross the moor, we couldn't go wrong. Visibility was good, we were in no danger of having difficulty navigating today. We were quite surprised when a group of about two dozen appeared ahead of us, coming our way. They chatted and joked a little as they passed us by, clearly a group of ramblers of some sort out for a day walk.
The ground was relatively dry, more squishy than sucky, so we only took the occasional minor diversion to avoid the worst bits and mostly made really good progress all the way across. We were accompanied by a cuckoo, we had really good views of him perched on a pylon, his persistent call urging us on as he moved to the next perch and waited a while, before moving on again. He eventually got tired of waiting for us to catch him up and left us to our bog hopping.
Zoom in, there is a cuckoo on the wire
I thought we had reached a path, but it was just a short bit, the bog returned around the corner until we reached the trees
It didn't actually take us as long as I had expected to cross the moor and we were soon entering the forestry. That's where things started to get tricky. The ground was terrible! Obviously churned up be recent works, there was new, random fencing and the ground was just completely waterlogged. We carefully picked our way across to eventually meet the track. Suddenly a figure appeared behind us. He quickly caught us up and kindly reminded me of his name, Chris Nunn. He was covered in bog, having taken a tumble on entering the forestry, his main aim now was to find a suitable water source to wash off the worst of the mud. He offered to leave any larger pitches he found for us, but we were quite sure we would make it to our planned pitch. The forest felt quite oppressive to me, dark, damp, still and midgie, I did not want to camp there. He strode on ahead and we did eventually find him pitched a little way along the track, looking a little cleaner.
Leaving the moor
A sign near Chris's pitch
We left him to it. We did vaguely look at a few pitches as we walked, but were uninspired. It took what seemed like an absolute age to eventually reach the end of the trees and head towards Rannoch Station and it had started to rain. Now, we knew the the tea room was closed, but I didn't learn until later that there is water left out for walkers and the means to make a hot drink I believe. I was gutted, I had dissuaded Laura from going to look for a water source there.
A sign pointing back the way we had come
We trudged up the road, I was beginning to worry my proposed camp wouldn't be suitable and was looking for alternatives as we walked. As the little hillock hove into view, I was dismayed to see what I thought were cattle, milling around the top. "Ugh, no! Cattle!" I nearly cried.
"Or is it rocks? Big rocks. I think it's boulders."
Phew! It was just boulders. Those illusions again...
We left the road and walked up the track, there were telegraph poles, a phone mast and a couple of pylons, not to mention something that hummed, loudly, but next to the ruin we found two tent shaped areas of flattened grass. I knew Kev had been planning to camp here the previous night, perhaps Trev had been with him? Must have been fun in that thunder storm...
We pitched our tents, mine was up first, so I headed off with all the water bottles to fill up at the Allt Eigheach at the bottom of the hill. I had to wander along the bank a while before I could safely reach the water, but I soon had all the bottles filled and headed back up the hill to the tents. I offered to boil some water for Laura, as I knew she was very tired and just planning a cold meal. I had every intention of a hot meal and sleepy tea, so I boiled my water whilst standing in the rain before diving into my tent for the night. Pumping up my airbed whilst lying on my back and pumping the hand pump on my head, the airbed lying on top of me, always causes great hilarity, organising a tent when it's raining is such fun. We actually had a really good signal here, funnily enough, so some messaging went on before I was tucked up in my sleeping bag, listening to snipe drumming and Sir Ian. Now I was Challenging.
Day 6
Tuesday 14th May
Planned
Doire na h-Innes to Kilvrecht Campsite
26km 440m
Actual
Doire na h-Innes to Kilvrecht Campsite
21km 146m probably, Garmin died again, at Finnart
The white noise of the strange humming thing was more comforting than irritating and we both had a reasonable night. The morning dawned, if not brightly, then not so damply, we breakfasted and packed away before heading off just after 09:00. We were getting better at this!
We returned to the road and headed east towards Loch Rannoch, taking a break just before Allt na Pairce. Here, Chris caught up with us and stopped for a chat. He'd had a lush breakfast at the tea room which had opened early by arrangement. He was keen to get on as he was headed off into the forestry from Bridge of Gaur. I shared with him the notes from my vetter about that part of his route and he was soon off on his way. Shortly after, three more Challengers appeared, Peter Stickler, Rob Slade and Steve Chesterton. These chaps are like a walking comedy show and were very entertaining, but were soon on their way. We were all heading to the same campsite, so would see them later.
We happily brought up the rear, wandering along, taking our time and enjoying the views. We were in quite high spirits now, both happy and impressed with how far we'd come, Day 6 already! I decided to continue with Laura along the south shore of the loch instead of taking my planned route through the forestry, the view of harvested forestry on the hill above was not enticing, and we were having a nice time. It was not long, however, before we were feeling a little weary and longing for a bench, fantasising about a cup of tea.
Just after Finnart, there was a cottage, with a bench just outside the gate.
The bench was unusual, it was made of wooden cycle signs.
I had every intention of sitting on this bench, which surprised Laura, as I am normally more cautious and more usually would have said, "We can't sit there, it's someone's garden."
But I didn't.
As I was dropping my pack, a man appeared from the cottage. I smiled my best smile, "Hi! Is it okay if we sit on your bench?"
"That's what it's there for."
Oh. Okay then.
"Would you like a cup of tea?"
I may have squeaked.
"Yes please!" we chorused, with enthusiasm.
Lovely chap went off to make tea as we made ourselves comfortable on his bench. When he returned, he handed us each a steaming mug and had a little chat about the Challenge, he did know about it and usually leaves out tea and biscuits, but was expecting us to be through the following week. He left us to it, "Just leave your mugs on the bench."
Cheers!
The Bench of Requirement
We were revived and once more enjoying ourselves. It was about 10km to the campsite, but we eventually arrived after it had started raining again. As expected, three of the other Challengers were already pitched and Chris was just putting his shelter up. We briefly wondered around before picking the least sloping grass we could find and pitching our own tents. Again, I boiled my water for dinner and tea in the rain. I used the facilities for a wash and to get changed before diving into my tent. I went to sleep listening to the rain pitter patter on my tent whilst Sir Ian read to me.
Day 7
Wednesday 15th May
Planned
Kilvrecht Campsite to Loch Errochty NN 686 648
15km 480m
Actual
Kilvrecht Campsite to Trinafour junction, Tummel Bridge
19km 149m
...leave no trace...
There had been tawny owls calling in the night, but I had a good night and we woke to a bright, dry day. The tents were not completely dry when packed away, but my pack was light as I was due to resupply in Kinloch Rannoch, just enough to get me to Blair Atholl the next day. I had found out before we'd left home that the coffee shop in the village had suddenly closed down, although The Funny Boys were convinced it was open, having been reassured by the campsite warden. We spoke to her too, she was very chatty and friendly, but I was confident my information was correct, so I didn't hold my breath. We set off about 09:20 but as we had a relatively short day, this was not an issue, we thought we had time to kill to avoid sitting around camp for hours. The road seemed excessively busy as we set off, but we were soon entering Kinloch Rannoch and setting our packs down on the benches in front of the village stores.
Looking west from the east end of Loch Rannoch
Keith and Annabel Barr were just filling their packs with the spoils from the shop before heading off towards Macgregor's Cave. Two other Challengers joined us. Unusually for me, I didn't ask or know their names, but they were clearly on the same mission as ourselves, resupply and move on, I think they were heading towards Schiehallion and beyond.
We both did a few circuits of the shop, trying to decide what we needed and what suited that purpose, but it wasn't easy. I ended up with two cheese and spring onion sandwiches, (I don't even like spring onions...) chocolate and some paracetamol. Laura remembered to ask if the cafe was open and the definitive answer was no. I may have shopped slightly differently had I known that first, but it didn't matter in the end. We sat outside, enjoying first lunch, I decided it was too hot to be dragging my sorry carcass up steep hills to my planned camp by Loch Errochty, so opted to take my FWA along Laura's planned route. Once organised again, we set off, before long we bumped into two lovely ladies as we perused a sign with a map of local paths and told them all about what we were doing before heading off along a path by the river for a short while. It was very pleasant, but didn't take us very far and we spent the rest of the day road walking. It was fine though, we did find the odd place to stop for breaks, some more odd than others, one through a gate off the road.
Schiehallion
Boots off break, on a track through an unlocked gate, overlooking Dunalastair Water
Underneath shady trees
We were so confident we had a short day to reach a spot recommended to me by the lovely Alan that we were in no hurry and this was no bad thing as it was a really hot day with very little by way of a refreshing breeze. We played a new game, Shade Hopping, we would skuttle between shady trees and rest briefly beneath them before skuttling to the next. We made our way along the road in this fashion until eventually I spied the gate that would lead to Alan's spot, at Tomanbuidhe.
We were a little uneasy as we shimmied through the pedestrian gap with our packs on, the forestry road had clearly been 'improved', which is often not good news. We strode along, slightly less confidently, still hopeful that our days walking was at an end and we would soon be popping up our tents and reminiscing the loveable rogue. It soon became clear this was not to be. The area was a scene of total destruction, the road was clear, but the ground either side was just rubble, stone, nettles and gorse, the water source was indiscernible. I should have known, giant pylons have been put through and Alan's perfect pitch is gone.
We were so devastated and shocked, neither of us even thought to take a photograph. Now, we needed a new plan.
Having returned to the roadside, we sat down for a snack and a think. We didn't really come up with much, I studied the map and there were a couple of possible water sources, Laura had camped previously just off the road to Trinafour on the way to Easter Bohespic, so we thought we might be able to find that again. We set off. Two kilometres later, we were at the junction. it was now about 17:00 and there was a little layby just by the junction, so we stopped for a break before heading up the steep hill on the Trinafour road. Trouble was, we had as yet been unsuccessful in our search for water, and I was a bit nervous about not having solved that problem. There was an elderly couple in an old campervan having their dinner, we asked if they minded us sitting nearby in the hope it might prompt conversation and perhaps the offer of a cup of tea. No such luck. As we sat by the verge, feeling a little downhearted, but with a good signal on our phones, we both started idly surfing the net for ideas.
I found The Inn at Loch Tummel.
There was possibly a bus.
Or a taxi.
Or our thumbs...
Laura made the call and secured a room, a Classic Super King. The guy would have come to collect us, after Laura explained our predicament, but he was single handed at the time, so suggested a taxi number. He did think it unlikely there would be one available, but he didn't think we'd have a problem hitching a lift. He very kindly didn't insist on a prepayment though.
I had never hitched before. As a child of the 60s, Laura had lots of hitching experience! We positioned ourselves at the edge of the layby and stuck out our thumbs. Only a few cars passed us by, the occupants laughing, before one stopped, the couple offered us a lift to the entrance to the holiday park at Loch Tummel. It was only a little over a kilometre closer to the Inn, but that would make a difference if we ended up walking. There was also a better chance of being able to thumb a lift from the entrance of the holiday park from folk going into Pitlochry for the evening, so we heaved our packs into their boot and climbed into the back seat. They were a lovely couple and very intrigued by our journey and plans, before we reached the holiday park, they had decided to take us all the way to the Inn, super kind!
Our host, Jade, was delighted to see us so soon and wasted no time welcoming us into his hotel, booking a table for dinner for us and showing us to a lovely room. We had everything we needed! Even a lodger in the bath which Laura helped on its way, and the entertainment was sorted whilst I was trying to work out how the shower operated, obviously by standing in the bath, fully dressed, with an audience...
Anyway, quickest shower ever, changed into completely inappropriate 'social clothes' and off down for a slap up dinner. We toasted Alan, he was clearly smiling down on us today and sorted The Best Accidental Hotel of the Challenge.
To Alan xx
My lamb cutlets with creamy haricot beans, dauphinoise potatoes, green beans and lamb jus
Laura's butternut squash and broad bean risotto
Complimentary, but remained untouched
We had plenty of time to relax after dinner and make plans for how we would return to the little layby the next day. There is a small local bus, and if we didn't have breakfast, we could catch the 09:15 bus which would give us plenty of time to make our way as planned via Easter Bohespic through Tummel Forest to Blair Atholl. Perfect.
Having supped my sleepy tea, I snuggled down with Sir Ian.
Day 8
Thursday 16th May
Planned
Loch Errochty to Blair Atholl Campsite
23km 340m
Actual
Trinafour junction to Blair Atholl Campsite
20km 379m
The day dawned bright and sunny, we packed up quite quickly in order to enjoy the freshly squeezed orange juice promised to us by Jade, before we headed outside to catch the bus. As we waited in the car park, a car drew up opposite and two young guys got out and headed to the hotel door where they asked for coffee. Having been told they were too early, they turned back towards their car. Laura leapt into action, "Excuse me, are you heading towards Tummel Bridge, could we have a lift?" They paused, but how could they say no? So we heaved our packs into the boot of their car, climbed into the back seat and off we went again.
Looking over Loch Tummel
They were very friendly young men, interested in what we were doing and quite impressed. They were just starting new jobs, working on transformers, so they saw the irony of our predicament the night before. They took us right back to the layby, slightly out of their way, but as they had been searching for coffee, they clearly had time to kill.
We set off up the hill at about 09:20, before the bus was even due to arrive at the holiday park, and headed for the track to Easter Bohespic. We noted that we probably would have found water and a place to camp, although the luxury of the hotel was clearly preferable on this occasion. There were warning signs at the gate, suggesting forestry works may be ongoing, but we decided the signs were old, the track had been largely unused by vehicles for a while and that we would have no issues. Bar getting through the rather tight pedestrian access. Once on the track, we wandered slowly eastwards, enjoying the shade of this lovely forest with occasional views over Tummel Bridge and towards Schiehallion. It was rather a pleasant wander.
Schiehallion from near Easter Bohespic
As we took a break in the shade with a lovely view into the trees, two Challengers came by, Neil Eppey and James Mitchell. We had a chat before they continued on their way. I would see them a couple times more and walk with them a short way before reaching Blair Atholl. Shortly after this break, Laura told me to go on ahead of her. She was quite happy to wander along alone and she knew I was keen to get to the campsite before the laundry closed to get a weeks worth of washing done, so I continued by myself. Not long after, Gerry Harber caught me up. He'd spoken to Laura as he passed her, he didn't recognise me, but I think we only met the once a few years ago. We had a lovely natter and then caught up with Oliver and Ute Freudenthal from Germany. After a brief conversation, Gerry and I continued together. We were soon at the turning for Loch Bhac, where I was due to turn off. Gerry had planned a different route, via Tomanraid, but on looking at the map, decided my way was shorter than his. So he decided to follow my path.
Not always a good plan, but on this occasion, I think he was fairly safe.
I knew there was a bench at the loch, but when we reached it, there were two gentlemen already seated there, with their four dogs running loose. Gerry was not keen to join them, as he is not keen on dogs, so we continued into the trees to find somewhere the other side of the forest for a proper tea break. We happened upon Neil and James by the side of a small stream in the forest, but we didn't think it looked nice. Beyond the forest there is some nice ground to take a rest before crossing the open moorland. We found a log to perch on and Gerry set up his stove to make tea. James and Neil, Ute and Oliver and passed us as we sat there. Three birds wheeled above the loch, osprey. They didn't dive, which was a shame, but nice to see them. I had a snack and a drink of water before leaving Gerry to his tea.
I soon passed the Freudenthals, and shortly after caught Neil and James up again. It was nice to walk with them a while, getting to know some new faces, and nice to have company to walk with through the farm at Balnansteuartach, but taking a rest a short while later, I decided I needed to get on.
Looking towards Beinn a' Ghlo
Heading through the fields alongside the A9
There were sheep in the field, but suddenly, a little further on, I heard a cow moo. I looked across the field and there was quite the herd, lazing in the shade of a group of trees, another moo and a few more got to their feet, there were calves among them. They were nervous, perhaps not used to someone with a backpack, perhaps looking for a dog.
I was nervous.
Really nervous.
I walked really, really fast, keeping one eye on the cattle and one eye on the track ahead, willing the gate at the layby to come in to sight. It didn't come as quickly as I'd like.
Once at the gate, I climbed the old stile and walked along the wide verge a few metres before waiting for a gap in the traffic, so I could skuttle across the road and climb the second old stile. There is a path through the trees that leads to the bridge over the River Garry and into Blair Atholl.
A sign pointing the way I came
The Watermill Cafe was closed as I walked passed, but I hadn't time to stop anyway. I arrived at the campsite in good time, booked in, did a little resupply in the shop there to last me to Ballater, collected my one and only parcel of this Challenge, bought a small tub of ice cream and a can of fizzy apple and then went to my camping pod. After opening up the little oven of a pod, I sat on the step outside and enjoyed my ice cream and some of the pop, then the pack was quickly opened, wash kit and social clothes taken out and I was off to the shower block. I had to wait briefly, obviously 16:00 is a good time to clean toilet and shower blocks, but once in I had a good shower, dressed and returned to the pod. Another quick faff and I was off to the laundry to do my washing, bumping into another Challenger, Paula Ruscoe on the way, her husband Stephen was at their pod. I had an hour longer than expected, but was still cutting it fine as the half hour wash promised is actually a few minutes longer, meaning the tumble dryer was due to finish a couple of minutes after the laundry was due to close. I sat at a picnic table outside with the rest of my pop, ready to beg for the laundry to be left open just a minute or two more, but in the end, I was away with my clean, dry laundry before anyone came to close it.
I was very happy.
David drove down to see me while I was so close to home, and Laura also arrived, having been at the pub to rehydrate. We dumped stuff back at the pod before David took us to the pub for something to eat, where we met Julie, the Mellors and Issy. Another Challenger, Robert Gildea, also briefly joined us after David had to go home. Laura and I gently strolled back to the pod and made rather an odd discovery, four empty tins had been left on our doorstep with a little note but no name. I still have no idea who left them.
We opted to leave the doors open overnight as it was so warm inside the pod still. Sir Ian was soon doing his thing.
Day 9
Friday 17th May
Planned
Blair Atholl Campsite to Bynack Lodge NO 000 855
27km 790m
Actual
As planned
29km 510m
I had to powder my nose in the early hours, as had become a regular thing on this Challenge. I put it down to being well hydrated for a change. On my way back to the pod, I happened across a pair of red legged partridge, just chilling on an empty van pitch. A tad unexpected.
I then snoozed again and woke to find Laura up, dressed, breakfasted and almost organised! This was also unexpected, but not an issue, I had to sort my pack and get the keys to reception before I could set off. There is a box at the door to put the keys if reception is not open, which as Julie pointed out, they should have been when I bumped into her there, waiting. The toilet block was being cleaned, again at a really sensible time, 08:45, so I decided a little after 09:00 to forego the panic pee and just set off to see if I could catch Laura. She had been convinced there was an exit somewhere near the top of the campsite, and I think she was right, but I took the dog walkers path by the river through a gate opposite our pod and soon reached the car park near Old Bridge of Tilt. I took the track through the big stone gate pillars that follows the river generally heading north. I hadn't actually got far before I spied Laura just ahead and soon we were walking together again.
Today was always the biggest day planned and we had talked about us not staying together and doing our own thing at any given time, we were solo Challengers after all, but by now, we were really enjoying and appreciating the company and support we gave each other, so today we would wander through Glen Tilt together. Not long after Issy caught us up. Sadly, the Mellors had had to retire, which left Issy walking alone for the first time. We did walk together a short while, having a catch up and discussing a camping option we had planned for the following night, but we were too slow and needed a rest before Issy did. We thought we would probably see her later at our planned stop at Bynack Lodge. As usual, our day was punctuated by pauses and boot breaks, there was no pressure to be anywhere and so we just enjoyed the scenery. We had both walked Glen Tilt before, I walked through with Emma in 2016, but the weather was pretty grim on that occasion, so this time it was nice to see what a lovely glen it is, with lots of history, flora and fauna to see. Also, lots of people. Earlier in the day, we saw mostly cyclists, most were friendly, one stopped for quite a natter as we were airing our feet and enjoying first lunch by the bridge just passed Marble Lodge. We also saw Oliver and Ute having a rest and they passed us as we sat by a waterfall a little further on. Later in the day, we bumped into more walkers than cyclists, mostly in pairs, coming from the opposite direction. The one cyclist we met just after the path splits for the Falls of Tarf was very friendly too. Shortly before the Bedford Bridge we were caught up by David Brown. He over took Laura as I crossed the bridge, barely even paused as he reached the other side and disappeared into the distance. We had a brief rest, then continued. This bit of the path is a little tough going. It is high above the river in places, a narrow path through heather, around rocks and over small burns, up and down steps and slopes. We took our time as it was quite tiring. During one of our pauses, I looked up to see what I thought was a peregrine falcon. I watched it while Laura caught up with me, then pointed it out to her. It was wonderful to watch. Then I realised there was a second. A third. No wait, a fourth! We watched them for ages, as we walked on for short stretches and paused to watch them again. I assume two parent birds and two newly fledged juveniles, but we weren't close enough to see clearly. It was breathtaking. We had seen a lone peregrine somewhere else, earlier in the Challenge, but neither of us can remember where.
Really useful gate
Looking back along Glen Tilt
Leaving the glen
Soon, we were leaving the gorge behind and were entering more gently undulating, open ground. We happened across two small tents pitched together, their owners were sitting enjoying the early evening sun, they waved, but we didn't stop to speak and we don't know if they were Challengers. Shortly after, just next to a burn crossing, Oliver and Ute were pitched. Oliver tried to persuade us to stop and camp with them, they didn't mind, there would be no 'fast running water' for 4 kilometres and we should stop. Laura and I had a discussion about this. I was feeling fine, another few kilometres didn't worry me and I had enough water to make our intended destination. So did Laura, but I was keen to know how she felt as we'd already walked a long way in the heat. We did not make a snap decision, but we agreed quite quickly that we were both happy to continue and were not worried. We wished them good evening and were on our way, slow but steady progress was being made.
I think the comment about 'fast flowing water' was actually key. Studying the map, we could see there were at least three possible water sources, should we require them, but we were confident we would make Bynack Lodge before 21:00. We did indeed cross three little burns, one was barely flowing, the other two were, although one only just. Our conclusion was that they were possibly drinking straight from the burns, so needed a fast flow, where as I was using a filter, Laura was using a filter and carrying purification tablets, so between us, we were happy we could cope if necessary. Of course, we plodded on and did indeed reach Bynack Lodge just before 21:00, where we found David! He was very friendly and welcomed us to this idyllic camp spot, even offering us both a dram, which neither of us could accept sadly, for different reasons. We noted that Issy wasn't here, we guessed she had probably continued to The Red House. We faffed a little pitching our tents tonight, but once they were up, I went to the river to collect water for both of us, I made dinner and sleepy tea and after powdering my nose, I was tucked up in bed with Sir Ian.
This was a long and tiring day, but we had both thoroughly enjoyed it, we were feeling stronger and more confident every day. Now we were really Challenging.
Day 10
Saturday 18th May
Planned
Bynack Lodge to Car Park NO 188 912
24km 150m
Actual
As planned
27km 173m
Leave no trace
David had warned us he snored. He wasn't wrong. But I had a reasonable night regardless and woke in a positive frame of mind. Unfortunately, we'd pitched behind a large tree and the morning sun never really reached our tents to dry them out, so we gave up and packed them away, thinking we would be pitched in the evening with time for them to dry out a bit.
We set off before David, just before 09:00, an early start! We soon reached the first of the three fords, which we were able to cross with dry feet. Also, the second. The third however, the Geldie Burn, was not quite so easy, and I opted to change into my crocs and just wade across, rather than risk teetering across and slipping into the water. Laura wanted to keep her Compeed in place, so took the risk. It worked for both of us, and Laura waited patiently for me while I put my boots back on. David caught up with us in the time it had taken us to do the three fordings and again disappeared into the distance. We were also caught up by a couple who had returned to the Challenge, 29 years after their last! I forget their names.
The Red House, previously known as The Dangerous Building
We walked on. There were so many day walkers, ones and twos and great big groups, quite a few cyclists too, all heading the opposite way to us. I realised they all smelled fresh and clean. Which probably meant we didn't...
This area is wide open with no shade and it was another hot, sunny day. It was so exhausting and along with my energy draining away, I could feel my mood changing and becoming negative and depressed. The first 7 kilometres of the day felt like the longest 7 km of my life. We were about 2 km passed White Bridge when we saw another walker coming towards us, a solo female. As she approached, I thought she looked kind of familiar. She walked towards me and said, "Are you Louise?"
Odd, I thought.
"Are you Jenny?" I said...
Yes!
Jenny Henderson, a virtual friend from X and Facebook and now in real life. How bizarre! And how wonderful. I had forgotten she would be on holiday in the area around now. So the three of us found a comfy spot to sit down, boots off and have a really good chinwag. Laura found a tick crawling on her arm almost immediately, I tried not to worry about it. We sat for a good long while, had a snack and a drink, but we knew we really needed to continue our journey. We bid farewell and set off for Mar Lodge. Shortly before we reached the shade of the trees at the Linn of Dee, I looked behind to see how far we'd come in the blazing sunshine and realised we were being followed by a kilted man. It could only be another fellow Challenger and top of my Hero List, Mike Knipe. It was lovely to catch up with his madcap adventures but it was soon clear he was a man on a mission, tea and biscuits at Mar Lodge, so we let him go ahead. He didn't get far, as he was stopped by some tourists to ask about his kilt and what he was up to, in the end, we walked a bit further with him before he left us again. Robert also caught us up just before we reached the lodge, he'd been having fun on the going over Beinn a' Ghlo and was also looking forward to tea and biscuits. That last kilometre to the rear entrance to the stables the other side of the lodge takes for-e-ver! We were quite shattered and so grateful to get out of the heat. That said, no sooner did we arrive than it began to rain. And continued to rain quite heavily for the duration of our break. Which was quite long. Several cups of tea and quite a lot of water was drunk. I had one Bourbon biscuit, but that was mainly due to laziness, I couldn't be bothered to get up to get any more. there was quite the roomful of Challengers, I can't remember everyone, Jean Turner, Mike, David, Robert, Graham Brooks and a few more. I was too tired to care and that is very rude.
I was feeling quite depressed and deflated again at this point. My Achilles was sore and this was bothering me, especially as I had a few hills planned on my route to the coast from Ballater. The heat we had been walking in was exhausting and had a very negative effect on my mood. I needed a plan.
Anyway, we had a good long break, powdered our noses and set off again. It was now slightly damp, so waterproofs were donned and we headed off towards Linn of Quoich. This was new ground for me, so I happily let go the reins of navigation (not that there had been much of that) and followed Laura's lead. After Allanaquoich, the track passes through largely farm land with the occasional building, mostly occupied, fields of livestock and thousands of flies. This was the worst part of the walk for flies. They bigger than midgies, but didn't appear to be biters, just really, really annoying. Luckily, we did eventually lose them. They weren't the only thing we lost though, somehow, we lost the right track. We got to the point we were quite convinced we were on the wrong track, herding sheep as we went, but we were so far a long we couldn't be bothered to turn back, it may have been up hill to do that, which was off putting, but we were relatively confident we could get back on track if we continued.
The point at which the track we were on headed in to a field of cattle was the point I became a little worried. There was a vague track up to our left, so I followed that and came to another gate leading in to a different field. We couldn't see if there was anything in the field, and because of a rise in the middle of the field, we could see the top a fence but no clear view of any exit. I took a punt and went through the gate. I virtually ran up the rise (running is against the rules, I did not run) and could then see that there was a gate the other side and that it was open, which meant there was no livestock and definitely no rabid bull in the field with us.
Relief!
So we were right back on track after our little adventure, a bit hot a sweaty, but in one piece.
We had a little over 2 kilometres to reach our overnight stop, so we just had to keep plodding on. It was a quite delightful to hear a green woodpecker yaffle somewhere in the woods, raised my spirits just briefly, but that 2 kilometres took a long time.
When we eventually reached the car park at Keiloch, where Ann and Alvah Thorn had obtained permission for us to camp, we found Issy already pitched in a tiny corner under a tree, behind some rocks. We checked the ground throughout the car park and unsurprisingly, it wasn't great, but again, no high winds were expected, we could probably get the pegs in just far enough to keep the tents up overnight. The tents were so very wet still, we would have to leave them empty for as long as we could before going to bed in the hope they might dry a bit. I pitched next to Issy and Laura was in the opposite corner. Across the car park there was a toilet with a tap, obviously it would be preferable if the tap was separate to the handwash sink, but sadly it is not, so water would need to be filtered or treated. Issy joined us for a hot drink as we had our dinner, we then all went into our tents to bed. I came up with a plan to protect my gear from the damp inner, laying my waterproof trousers, legs unzipped, beside my airbed so I could put my gear inside the legs. I zipped my jacket up and put it over the foot of my sleeping bag, just to protect it as much as I could. Tomorrow I would be in accommodation and could hopefully get everything dried off. These little positives helped me think more clearly and I began to form a plan to get me to the coast, and it would involve Laura.
Sir Ian helped me drift off to sleep.
Day 11
Sunday 19th May
Planned
Car Park to Ballater Hostel
27km to 151m
Actual
As planned
Issy was up, organised and away early. She was heading towards Gelder Shiel I think and this was the last time we saw her as she finished the day before we did, well done Issy! We did eventually get going, my inner had dried up nicely over night, which pleased me, so I detached it and packed it separately. The outer was unsurprisingly wet with condensation. I dried it as much as I could before packing it away as usual. I popped to the toilet only to return as a mini bus was backing perilously close to my gear having dropped off a large group of walkers.
Leave no trace
Laura's pitch
The rest of the car park and the toilet block
We set off just before 09:00 again, this was becoming a habit, heading down to the road to cross it and take a path through the trees to the Invercauld Bridge, which we crossed and entered the Ballochbuie Forest. Laura knows the area very well and I am now very comfortable here, so we strolled on, taking our time and enjoying the occasional break. There were a couple of Challengers, one who headed towards Gelder Shiel and one who came our way, but I can't remember who they were, sorry. As we were walking along the track in the Woods of Garmaddie, I thought I could hear the familiar contact call of an osprey, but I've not seen them here before and wasn't sure, it seemed to be coming from high over the River Dee. We walked on until we were admiring the Highland coos, where the Highland ponies used to graze, and I again became aware of the familiar call. I scanned the sky and there it was! An osprey. Actually, two. No! Three! How delightful!
Shortly after we passed the castle and had a quick discussion as to which was the best way to exit, but in the end decided to followed the tourists. A chap in a hi viz vest made a beeline to come and speak to us, I momentarily worried we were going to be told we couldn't be there for some reason, but he turned out to be a super friendly tour bus driver, curious about our big packs and what we were up to. He was fascinated by our story and so impressed, I think we both realised at that point that actually, we were doing really well. We were joined by another Challenger who turned out to be Andy Gerrard, who I gently punched on the arm when he reminded me of his name. I did apologise. After exiting through the castle gates, Andy continued along the minor road, Laura and I crossed the bridge into the car park, took a little path across the field, crossed the road and headed for her house. We couldn't really walk passed her front door and not pop in!
We had a cup of tea and some soup and toast and discussed plans for the next few days. Laura was no longer keen to explore a Mounth road she had found heading south from Banchory as it was likely to be overgrown and difficult to follow. My Achilles was causing me some discomfort, probably tendonitis, and as my planned route was a bit rough and lumpy, I thought the relatively easy track of the Deeside Way would be a straight forward alternative for me too, so I quickly booked a room a the same hotel in Banchory and we decided we would find something for the next night later. It wasn't long before I powdered my nose and was ready to set off. We had decided to walk solo to Ballater as I had a room at the hostel and Laura would probably get the bus home and back through to Ballater in the morning, all within the rules. She also prefers to walk the main road, which she knows well, whereas I prefer the minor road on the south of the river.
Invercauld Bridge
Towards the Castle
Before we had left for the Challenge, the footbridge over the Dee was still closed for repair, but as the signs had disappeared and people didn't seem to be returning having walked down to it, we decided it must be open again, which saved me the bother of having to return the way we had come. It did feel strange to be walking alone, but we would be together again tomorrow and now, until the end of the Challenge.
I tried really hard not to pound along the tarmac and to still take rests, I had a boots off break in a little layby but by then probably only had about 5 kilometres to walk. Just before Bridge of Muick a car slowed alongside me and I thought I was going to be offered a lift, I mentally prepared myself to turn it down only to find it was actually fellow Challenger Dominique from the hostel! She had spotted me and stopped to offer me a cookie as she was refilling the boxes she puts out for disheveled, starving Challengers to find on their way to Ballater, what a star! She actually gave me two cookies and told me to take more from the next box as she was on her way to replenish it.
Soup, toast, tea and painkillers at Cafe Laura
The Phone Box Library where Heidi, Barry and I had a break '22
Always photograph this sign
Boots off break 5 kilometres from Ballater
Cookies!
After she drove off, I continued on my way, soon crossing the Bridge of Muick, along the footpath, a short stretch of road and then over the River Dee to book in to the hostel. Daniel was on duty and was very welcoming. He gave me my room key, we sorted out getting my laundry done and I went to unpack, shower, sort my gear out and call Control before heading out for dinner. I told Ali that my plans had changed and that I would be heading along the Deeside Way with Laura, the line was not good, however, so I wasn't able to give any details, but we did rearrange my next phone to Banchory in two days time.
I went to the Alex first, a popular haunt of regular Challengers, but there were no familiar faces and no one called out to me, so I assume no one I knew was there. Sadly, the Alex was not as welcoming as usual and weren't able to fit me in until possibly after 19:30, so I left and headed for Co-op, initially intending to return but then I realised this would not be great if they still couldn't find a table for one, so changed my mind. As I was getting my resupply done and there was a whole kitchen at my disposal at the hostel, I would buy a pizza and some salad to enjoy at my leisure. Perfect!
So that's what I did and thoroughly enjoyed it too. I even got myself a beer to enjoy, which I took to my room, along with my mug of sleepy tea. After a phone call home, I cuddled up with Sir Ian.
Day 12
Monday 20th May
Planned
Ballater Hostel to Fungle Road NO 514 920
22km 450m
Actual
Ballater Hostel to Aboyne Caravan Park
22km 75m
I was up and organised in really good time, so was in town ready to meet Laura well before 09:00. Laura had also been organised and I met her at the start of the Deeside Way so we could set off together, in a generally easterly direction. It was another nice day, if a little warm, but we would mostly have shade from the trees and were looking forward to an easy day, in fact, an easy few days to the finish! We did meet a few Challengers today, Peter Camm a four time solo Challenger form Hawick and a pair of first timer Americans, Brian Boland and David Darcy, wonderfully alliterative names! We passed each other a few times, sat together briefly at Cambus o' May bridge and we won't mention the water bottle...
After our short break at the bridge, we walked on to Dinnet, where we briefly discussed tea and scones, but the hotel appeared to be closed and I've had pretty miserable dealings with them in the past, so we didn't bother. Instead, we left the Way and walked along the road so that Laura could speak to the garage who were fixing her car. As we left the garage, I asked if there was an easy, more direct route to reconnect with the Way, rather than having to go all they way back, and luckily, there was. As soon as we were back on track, we found shade and sat down for first lunch, with boots off. It didn't seem long before we were on our way again, heading for Aboyne. There is a large parking area by the airfield there, with picnic benches and quite often a coffee trailer. We became quite focused on the idea of a second lunch, with coffee, so pottered along quite happily. Luckily, the coffee trailer was open and even more pleasing, he could provide us with fresh fries! We opted for cold drinks instead of coffee and found a bench with a little bit of shade to enjoy them, best fries ever!
Following The Way
Chips of Requirement, best ever!
There was about 6 kilometres left to walk but it felt further in the heat. We arrived shortly before 18:00, so a relatively early finish for us. This is really a caravan park that doesn't normally take tents, but they do for the Challenge and fit the little tents in on small grassy patches between the statics, but most have a picnic bench, there are dishwashing areas and fresh water taps and we were given a pitch near a solo Challenger not too far from the toilet block.
More signs of the railway
Loch of Aboyne
Laura's pitch and the picnic bench
Not pretty, but tasty Idahoan Cheese Mash and homemade dehydrated baked beans
Again, we had a bit of a faff deciding where to pitch and problems getting the pegs in, but I was soon off for a shower. When I returned, we both cooked dinner, Laura sat at the picnic bench, unusually I was actually more comfortable sitting in the porch of my tent. We were expecting a drop in temperature that night, so I wore a couple of layers under my Prism jacket when I went to bed and had my gilet loose in my bag, over my hips, which I find a very effective way of keeping warm. Sir Ian lulled my to sleep.
Day 13
Tuesday 21st May
Planned
Fungle Road to Tarfside Hostel
15km 400m
Actual
Aboyne Caravan Park to Banchory
24km 346m
I didn't have too bad a night, I was not disturbed by the birds in the night, squabbling or under attack, Laura didn't know, but I slept through it. We were relatively organised in the morning, but couldn't get away too early as I wanted my deposit for the bathroom keys back. The keys that we never used because the door was left on the latch throughout our stay... We were away by 09:15 and popped straight back on to the Way at the gate to the caravan park. Shortly after entering the woodland we found a handful of folded map print outs of the area showing a route to Aberdeen. It didn't take much to work out they belonged to a Challenger, probably the solo female Challenger we met briefly at the campsite, Sheri Hogeboom. We thought we should take the maps with us, not least because they were now litter, just in case we caught Sheri up and could ask her. Near Rosehill, a short diversion into the adjacent field was necessary to avoid a few blowdowns. The clear path through the long grass would suggest the trees have been down a while. Back on the Way and we continued through the trees. We reached a gated exit from the track onto a path, there was a way marker but the arrow at the base of the post indicating the path was slightly obscured by undergrowth. I beat this down a bit, just in case anyone was following us might miss it. The path ran down to the road, which it crossed and then entered the forestry opposite. Coming down the road, we spotted Sheri and waited for her, but she didn't appear. We walked on and found an entrance onto the Way further along, so Sheri must have come through that way and we'd missed her. As we rounded a bend, we could hear voices ahead and soon found Sheri and Peter having a chat. Yes, the maps belonged to Sheri and she was very relieved to have them back. They were both heading for Banchory too, Peter to the same hotel as us and Sheri to another hotel. They were both too quick for us though and we let them go on ahead so we could just potter along, bringing up the rear.
We were soon heading in to Kincardine O' Neil where there are public toilets, which we used, and a little village shop that makes fresh sandwiches and sells takeaway hot drinks. We made our choices and by the time we returned outside to the tables, Peter and Sheri were making to leave, so we took their table. This was a really lovely little break, the fresh sandwiches were delicious and we felt refreshed and ready to continue. As we were sorting ourselves out, we saw four more Challengers heading our way, they were David Hardy, Bernard Forrester, Aileen Connor and Martin Osborne. I have met them before on several Challenges, they are an awesome team, but I doubt they recognise me. We left them to our table and headed off across the road to take the path heading down towards and along the river. It's pleasant walking for a few kilometres before we reached the bridge over the river to Potarch, where there is common ground, a large grassed area with benches and some trees for shade. We took off our packs and leant against a grassy bank by the car park for a boots off break. Not too long after, David's group caught us up again and came to sit with us. We chatted a while, they were aiming for Feughside campsite then in to the Fetteresso for a Stonehaven finish, so we would only bump into them a couple more times before they headed further south and we headed into the Blackhall Forest.
The forestry was initially enjoyable, we even found the occasional bench to begin with, but the track soon became wearisome and looking at the map now, I can see why. The Way takes a gently undulating, slightly winding route through the forest and I can understand why it felt never-ending. We knew we must be nearing the car park and therefore the road in to Banchory as we started to meet the odd mountain biker and then dog walkers, but still it seemed to take forever for us to reach the road and walk in to town. In that time, I had begun to fantasize about a curry, most unusual for me on the Challenge, I actively avoid spicy food, but I really wanted a curry, so I made my feelings known. As we walked in to town, we passed a takeaway, but Laura mentioned a restaurant, just around the corner. A few metres further and we could see the restaurant and immediately realised the seating area was upstairs. We returned to the takeaway and placed our order, to collect in about an hour, which would give us time to book in to our hotel, for me to shower and then pop back out for the food. Laura went to the bar to get some drinks and whilst there, bumped in to Peter, she had a drink with him then brought our drinks back up stairs, where I was now polishing off my curry.
It was delicious.
Freshly made sandwiches and tea at Kincardine O' Neil
A sign bearing our final destination
Sitting on a Bench of Requirement, waiting for Laura
A view through the trees
While Laura ate her curry, I rang Control to let them know we were both safe and still planning to walk the Way to Aberdeen. We were told there was a weather warning for heavy rain the next day, not the best news, but at least we were going to have accomodation at Cults, having booked another hotel, and we wouldn't be trying to find somewhere to pitch a tent. We would also have a bathroom to hang our wet waterproofs if necessary, so we had no concerns.
Best Curry Ever
Laura returned to her own room and I had a quick chat with David before curling up in my comfy bed with Sir Ian.
Day 14
Wednesday 22nd May
Planned
Tarfside Hostel to Dovecot Caravan Park
28km 220m
Actual
Banchory to Cults
26km 146m
We somehow managed to be ready to set off super early today, 07:45! We had talked about finding somewhere for breakfast before we started walking, but as we were ready before most coffee shops were open, we decided to just call in to Greens for a few supplies instead. I had discovered my toothbrush was snapped, so needed a replacement to get me to the coast. Imagine my horror to find I had to buy a packet of three! And there was no Soreen, another disappointment. Still, purchases were made, a makeshift breakfast was had on a bench nearby, and then we walked. It was easy to reconnect with the Way, taking us initially through a park. Tucked away in a corner were two tents, we suspect they might have been Challengers, but we didn't see anyone so don't really know. There are some quite obvious signs that this route follows the old railway, there are old engines and carriages, some gates and tracks. As is usual with walking routes near civilisation, the track was very busy with dog walkers, cyclists and runners, despite being early in the morning. After about 5 kilometres, we reached Milton of Crathes where there is a craft village. There is a little bistro cafe that serves coffees and snacks, so obviously, we had to stop by and indulge. We had pots of tea and delicious, freshly baked scones, definitely worth stopping for.
Disaster
Three Toothbrushes of Requirement!
Signs of the railway
More tea and freshly baked scones
It was generally very pleasurable walking today, through a variety of rural, wooded and community areas. Somewhere between Milton of Crathes and Coalfield, we were surprised to hear the unmistakable call of a peacock, which made us laugh. We walked for a while before reaching Drumoak, I spotted a bench on the opposite side of the road and made a beeline for it. As we ate first lunch a lady walking with her rescue dog stopped for a chat. She was very curious about what we were up to, thinking out loud that we could have found somewhere better for a picnic. We explained what we were doing before she in turn told us her life story and the story of her dog.
We set off again after I'd put on an extra layer, there had been a discernable drop in the temperature and we knew that later this afternoon, we were expecting rain. We were trying to make note of places it might be possible to camp on this stretch for future reference, there were a few spots, but not many and water would have to be carried. Shortly after Coalfield, having been looking for somewhere to rest for a while, we sat on a grassy verge by a quiet road for a boots off break and second lunch. As we were packing up to walk on, I felt the first drop of rain. I decided I would put my waterproofs on, just in case, and Laura decided to follow suit. We were both glad we had as not long after the heavens opened. The weather warning was correct, the rain was heavy.
Antique gate
Scary face
Telling the history of the railway. There were many of these
It didn't take long for us to realise we had both sprung leaks. Laura suddenly realised her pit zips were wide open, I helped her close them, but she was wet already. I have no idea why my jacket appeared to be letting in water. We walked on in the rain for what seemed like an eternity. There was about 8 kilometres to Cults and although we looked, there wasn't really anywhere to take a break until after about an hour, there was a brief let up in the rain and we found a sloping bench to perch on for a short while. Not long after, it started to rain in earnest again. By now, the Way was passing through a very suburban area, at the back of houses and flats, but being away from traffic, it is still a very enjoyable walk. There were lots of dog walkers, runners and cyclists. Some of the cyclists were great, some did not have bells or didn't know how to use them to best effect. Eventually, we reached Cults and had to leave the Way to find our way to the main road and then find the Cults Hotel. We actually negotiated this quite well, considering buildings usually throw me completely, and entered the reception area where the chap on reception was helping another guest so we had to wait a while. I am fairly sure he thought we were going to ask if they had any vacancies, he appeared to be quite disappointed when I told him we had a room booked. He then gave us instructions to take the ancient lift up to the second floor and how to find our room. The instructions were not clear, by trial and error we worked out you had to keep the button depressed to reach the appropriate floor, and the directions to our room was just plain wrong, but after some wandering around, we found it and got ourselves settled in. That included me having a shower and then we turned the bathroom into a Chinese laundry, turning the heater on and up to full blast, leaving the fan on and opening the window too.
Then we went down the stairs (I was not going in to that lift again...) to find the bar and perhaps a bar meal. We somehow ended up with a table in the restaurant, got drinks and ordered some food. Luckily it wasn't extortionate. The food was nice, but we didn't hang around after we finished as we were very tired.
This room was a standard double, unlike the huge bed we'd had at Loch Tummel that I could arrange the cushions down the middle of. This time, I decided I would be more comfortable on the floor, so set my mattress and sleeping bag up to the side of the bed. We sat together and drank tea whilst watching a bit of television before settling down for the night. Sir Ian read my to sleep as usual.
Day 15
Thursday 23rd May
Planned
Dovecot Caravan Park to Kinnaber Links
13km 80m
Actual
Cults to Aberdeen
8km 34m probably, forgot to stop Garmin until after the train had left the station...
Again, we were up and ready to go early today. The laundry room had done it's job and all of our clothes and waterproofs were dry again and ready to get wet in todays rain, as it was indeed raining again.
Packed, ready for the last day
We set off by 08:15, collected the Way again and made steady progress, pausing when necessary, but quite focused on reaching Duthie Park and seeking out the cafe for our last tea and scones of this Challenge. Not surprisingly, the Way was again busy, with dog walkers, runners and cyclists, some stopped for a chat. It took a little over an hour to reach the cafe, by which time it was open but not busy. We found a table and went to the counter to collect two pots of tea, two scones and I had a chocolate orange truffle slice too, as a celebration. After powdering our noses, we set off again, this time to see the sea and then to catch a bus to Montrose.
The last tea, scones and cake
Heading towards the harbour
The end was pretty unceremonious, no footprints in the sand, I even forgot to take a photograph, as I was completely distracted by bumping in to the lovely Emma Warbrick. She was on her way to catch a train, and suggested we went with her as then she would have company, her first in nearly a week, and we couldn't have her feeling lonely! So we about turned, I bought tickets using the Scot Rail app on my phone and we headed off to Montrose to sign back in at Challenge Control.
It was done!
With Laura as we arrived at The Park Hotel, Montrose
Now to plan my 10th...
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